D15Z1 Engine swap project log [ Archive] - GasSavers.org - Helping You Save at the Pump

As I prepare for my engine swap I figured it was time for me to begin logging my progress, with pictures.

I tried and tried to get the crankshaft pulley bolt off using the air gun and I couldn't do it.

So I resorted to the method suggested by Dax.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/wood1.jpg

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/wood2.jpg

I bought a piece of pipe to make the prybar over 3 feet long.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/with_prybar.jpg

I had my wife stand on the wood and the bolt came off in a jiff. Awesome idea Dax! Oh, I also had to do the same thing when I put the bolt back on. Hopefully it's torqued tight enough.

Success! The pully and the cover are off. Now it's time to replace the timing belt and water pump (both pictured on the right of the picture below)

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/pulley_bolt_off.jpg

After lots of confusion and referring to my multiple manuals on the subject, I finally got it all back together.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/engine_cover_done.jpg

This was all done yesterday. It was a very good day.

Then tonight I mounted the transmission to the engine. I replaced the Throw-Out Bearing a few weeks ago on the transmission, and I also replaced the axle oil seals tonight as well.

here she is :)

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/engine_complete.jpg

The next step will be cleaning up a few things (nothing big). I also need to put the alternator bracket back on and get everything labeled so when the other engine comes out I will know exactly where everything goes.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/wood2.jpg

i'm glad to see a *yelling* MINT PAIR OF BLUE EX SEATS IS ROTTING IN YOUR GARAGE!!!! *deep breath* but i digress BTW your sparkplug wires look broken to me ;)

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/engine_complete.jpg

i give u FREE manuals and u dont even take the three seconds to say thx py posting them w. the motor :( lol j/k :D

i'm glad to see a *yelling* MINT PAIR OF BLUE EX SEATS IS ROTTING IN YOUR GARAGE!!!! *deep breath* but i digress BTW your sparkplug wires look broken to me ;)

That's just one seat. I'm waiting to change it because I want to swap the pedal cluster at the same time.

i give u FREE manuals and u dont even take the three seconds to say thx py posting them w. the motor :( lol j/k :D

I only keep the crappy manual in the garage, at least until I make the bookcase for car books.

Awesome. I'm glad the method worked for you!

interesting method.

interesting method.

Welcome to Matt's Ghetto Garage. Lessons available.

That engine/trans is in really good shape. Where did you pick it up and how much did it cost?

nippon motors. http://www.nippon-motors.com/index.htm i'm going to get my D16Z6 form there eventualy.

nippon motors. http://www.nippon-motors.com/index.htm i'm going to get my D16Z6 form there eventualy.


He's right. The engine is from Nippon motors, but the transmission is from a guy on Honda-Tech that was parting out his CRX HF. I paid $50 for the transmission and $60 to ship it.

Tim, The swap looks awesome. I found an hf tranny in NM and I am in NJ. Where did your hf tranny ship from, and what type of shipping was it? I am trying to decide on the cheapest method of shipping it.

Sorry about that. One more ?: Did you do any work on your hf tranny b4 mounting it up? How do you judge whether it needs anything done, before mounting it up and hoping for the best?

Tim, The swap looks awesome. I found an hf tranny in NM and I am in NJ. Where did your hf tranny ship from, and what type of shipping was it? I am trying to decide on the cheapest method of shipping it.

I think it was shipped from somewhere in the midwest. I can't remember any more where it was shipped from. They shipped via UPS. There might better ways to ship, including Greyhound or even DHL. I'm sure the prices are all relatively close though.

You might want to talk to SVOBoy about helping you find a local HF tranny. He seems to be able to locate stuff pretty easily. He's in NJ as well.

Sorry about that. One more ?: Did you do any work on your hf tranny b4 mounting it up? How do you judge whether it needs anything done, before mounting it up and hoping for the best?

I didn't do any work on the internals. The tranny has 160k on it, and the seller swears up and down it has no issues. I figure for the price I can always go to the junkyard and find another HF tranny if this one is bad.

DaX is actually rebuilding a HF transmission right now. It's a very intensive process and probably not something I'm ever going to do. I did, however, put a new throwout bearing on it.

I think most of the transmission questions should be directed towards DaX.

You might want to talk to SVOBoy about helping you find a local HF tranny. He seems to be able to locate stuff pretty easily. He's in NJ as well.

Everyone loves me. We've talked, I haven't seen one yet though.

Gotta pick up dan's **** (and mine) this weekend, but he's busy with the tour del sol and all that, so he won't get to bug me about it.

DaX is actually rebuilding a HF transmission right now.

I'm actually through! I'm just waiting for the time to put the tranny in and do the 5-speed conversion. Time is hard to find when planning a wedding, going to school, and trying to put a contract on a house!

I'm actually through! I'm just waiting for the time to put the tranny in and do the 5-speed conversion. Time is hard to find when planning a wedding, going to school, and trying to put a contract on a house!


Cut sex out of your routine for a weekend, swap done.

That's a sweet looking motor. So what all do they throw in? I know it needs an EGR set at least, and I've heard the Japanese imports are rather crudely hacked apart.

I've wondered if I could trade my d16z6 straight up for a d15z1 (w. tranny, as that's half the battle). It's not exactly a B block, but it's probably worth it to somebody.

BTW, those crank bolts are totally insane. I made an inside hex socket by grinding down some sort of tractor drive adaptor, then welding it (via 2 batteries in series... do not try at home) to a steel bar. But your pulley doesn't even have the inside hex? Honda should just forge the crank and drive pulley together and get it over with.

I've wondered if I could trade my d16z6 straight up for a d15z1 (w. tranny, as that's half the battle). It's not exactly a B block, but it's probably worth it to somebody.

You can probably sell your entire z6 swap (with tranny, ECU, etc.) for around $800. You can get a good z1 swap (ECU, tranny, etc.) for less than that.

My engine was $550 shipped to my door. ECU was $30. You can probably get the tranny for next to nothing (people just throw these things away). You can get a EGR control box for around $20 on honda-tech.

I've actually seen entire Z1 swaps go for $200 on honda-tech before.

I've wondered if I could trade my d16z6 straight up for a d15z1

You can probably sell your entire z6 swap (with tranny, ECU, etc.) for around $800.

or just sell it to me. or doit the svoboy way and GIVE it to me :P

I've actually seen entire Z1 swaps go for $200 on honda-tech before.

Indeed, I know one guy who bought his for 100, getting another for free from another guy I know.

I refuse to pay more than 100 for the engine, just waiting for one local.

Cut sex out of your routine for a weekend, swap done.

I'd need to cut sex, talking with my real estate agent, shopping for wedding supplies, and figuring out how to start repaying school loans back out of THIS weekend to make time. Maybe next weekend. :)

You can probably sell your entire z6 swap (with tranny, ECU, etc.) for around $800. You can get a good z1 swap (ECU, tranny, etc.) for less than that.thats super optimistic. ive seen complete z6 swaps hang out for 6 months online for $500 then get sold for $450.

either way a z1 swap should be super cheap

Indeed, I know one guy who bought his for 100, getting another for free from another guy I know.

I refuse to pay more than 100 for the engine, just waiting for one local.

I was happy to pay what I paid. Not only is my engine low mileage (under 60k miles) but it had all of the sensors (minus 1) AND it has a one year warranty.

Not that I need it since it's just been sitting in my garage, but whatever.

your really paying for peace of mind, and it is well worth it in your circumstance.

however selling a d16z6 swap for $800 does not come with the peace of mind... you see my point?

your really paying for peace of mind, and it is well worth it in your circumstance.

however selling a d16z6 swap for $800 does not come with the peace of mind... you see my point?

Absolutely. I actually tried to get a cheap z1 swap but no one was selling one. Or, no one would ship it to me.

I then bought a cylinder head and was planning on doing a mini-me, but then I realized that my compression ratio would be over 12:1. So much for saving on gas.

For a brief instant I considered getting a spare block and buying new p07 pistons/rods/etc and making a z1 engine.

The total cost was going to be more than just buying the engine. So I chose the engine.

Sold the cylinder head for a ridiculously low amount of money.

*chanting croud* WE WANT MORE PICS!!!. how bout your civic. never seen that inside engine. or inside. just painting pics. give us some b4 pics :P

*chanting croud* WE WANT MORE PICS!!!. how bout your civic. never seen that inside engine. or inside. just painting pics. give us some b4 pics :P

I'll take a few tomorrow and get em posted.

I have this week off of work. I'm hoping that this week unfolds as follows:

Monday

Get lower ball joint buller and punch for the b-pin from autozone.
Rent hoist from autozone
Drive n600 to the autoshop and get safety inspection
Drive civic to DMV and get new title/registration on n600
Go to Junkyard and maybe get SVOBoy rear tranny mount - look for anything worthwhile when I am there.
Get new sprinkler heads at Home Depot
Go home - remove b-pin and axle bolts - maybe remove axles
Put new springler heads in the backyard.
Go to family event Tuesday

Remove Engine
Go to friend's wedding and party afterwards Wednesday

change wiring on my car while the engine is out. I will be upgrading from obd0 to obd1. I will also be upgrading from Dual Point Fuel Injection to Multi-Point Fuel Injection.
Double check everything on the new engine. Ensure that crank pulley is torqued properly. Thursday

Drop in the new engine
Reattach axles and make sure wiring is right Friday

figure out why the car won't start
re-do anything I did wrong or forgot to do
Drive around town to make sure it works and to get an idea of my new fuel economy Saturday

If all goes according to plan. return the engine hoist I may end up buying an engine hoist instead of just renting one. You never know when you might need one of these things, especially if you're a backyard mechanic.

Wish me luck. Tomorrow is going to be a big day.

Tuesday

Remove Engine
Go to friend's wedding and party afterwards

A party celebrating the removal of your engine? Awesome idea!

Sounds like you willl need a SuperMID soon.....

Remove Engine
Go to friend's wedding and party afterwards******************

I may end up buying an engine hoist instead of just renting one. You never know when you might need one of these things, especially if you're a backyard mechanic.

Wish me luck. Tomorrow is going to be a big day.

HA! I've got a wedding this saturday then I'm going to go finish my 5-speed conversion!

I would just buy the hoist if you can afford it. I got mine from Pep-Boys for $120 and it has been INVALUABLE.

LUCK!

HA! I've got a wedding this saturday then I'm going to go finish my 5-speed conversion!

I would just buy the hoist if you can afford it. I got mine from Pep-Boys for $120 and it has been INVALUABLE.

LUCK!

If they are that cheap I'll definately get one. I've only seen them for $200 at autozone or Harbor Freight.

I want hardcore details on the installation/wiring prep....I'll need all the obd0-obd1 info I can get once I dig in my build. Good Luck! Mak

I want hardcore details on the installation/wiring prep....I'll need all the obd0-obd1 info I can get once I dig in my build. Good Luck! Mak

I'll give you as much as possible. I started making my own harness a while ago for obd0->obd1, but I decided it was going to be easier to buy one pre-made from www.rywire.com. It cost $130 and has instructions that come with it.

I'll give you as much as possible. I started making my own harness a while ago for obd0->obd1, but I decided it was going to be easier to buy one pre-made from www.rywire.com (http://www.rywire.com). It cost $130 and has instructions that come with it.

$130 for plug-and-play? Will this harness have the 5-wire o2 plug, VTEC, and still have the white OBD-0 plugs for the shock tower connections? If so that is an EXCELLENT deal.

$130 for plug-and-play? Will this harness have the 5-wire o2 plug, VTEC, and still have the white OBD-0 plugs for the shock tower connections? If so that is an EXCELLENT deal.

$130 for the conversion harness. My engine came with all of the needed plugs (except for one, which I found in the junkyard).

If you want them to convert an existing harness to work for you, that's an extra $300.

Matt: Just a note and a question. I've pulled and installed several Honda engine's with just my 2 1/2 ton floor jack. I've uses an engine hoist previously and from my standpoint, in terms of space and ease, I was able to do it without the hoist, almost as easy as with. However, if you have room and your going to use a hoist, I would suggest a purchase over renting. Every time I have rented I end up having issues where something doesn't go right and I end up paying more for the rental and I still don't have anything when I'm done.

On a different note, I can't figure out how to change my user name to something more "meaningful" instead of pseudo-random, like I have it now. I'm sure their is a way, just don't know what it is.

Thanks, Gary, a "lurker"?

Monday
Get lower ball joint buller and punch for the b-pin from autozone.
Rent hoist from autozone
Drive n600 to the autoshop and get safety inspection
Drive civic to DMV and get new title/registration on n600
Go to Junkyard and maybe get SVOBoy rear tranny mount - look for anything worthwhile when I am there.
Get new sprinkler heads at Home Depot
Go home - remove b-pin and axle bolts - maybe remove axles
Put new springler heads in the backyard.
Go to family event

I purchased a set of punches today at home depot. HOpefully one will work.

I purchased a hoist from pep boys ($120, good price).

no time for junkyard today.

Purchased sprinkler heads - might have time to install them later.

No time for starting the swap today as I'm dealing with emissions problems on the n600. I have to drive about 10 miles now (the farthest it's ever been driven) in order to get it inspected. Let's hope the engine doesn't blow up.

Just removed the b-pin. The punches I purchased didn't work correctly, so I had to use a combination of a drill and a 10mm bolt (head is 10mm, thread is 6mm) from a bunch of spare bolts I had.

I'm going to autozone now to get a hydrolic jack. As much as I love using the hand jack to move the car up and down, I prefer not to do it.

Next: Axles, drain fluids, remove radiator, remove battery, unbolt power steering and A/C. Assemble the engine hoist and then pull that sucker out.

Pictures soon.

Must take pictures of mine tonight, can't have you beating me on that front.

Anyway, good luck, everything is cake, to be honest, just the idea is scary. I'm sure trannies will be cake for us folks once we tear into a few.

Good luck again though, I'm glad you're getting it done, if my mom asks what I want for graduation I think I know what I'll tell her...

Good luck again though, I'm glad you're getting it done, if my mom asks what I want for graduation I think I know what I'll tell her...

Car parts or some kind of jack or maybe engine hoist???

My dad bought me a 3 ton floor jack, and 3 ton jack stands. He also got me a oil pan that you dump oil. We rarely work on his car or my mom's car but we always work on my car. If it wasn't for my POS car I would of never had that stuff. If your parents get you **** just get some american pos car that keeps breaking stuff and in a year or two your garage will be full of tools.

Matt: If you haven't already got a jack, you might try getting a heavy duty floor jack at Costco. They are substantially more stable and you can lift anything you are likely to encounter, unless you get a fork lift, like Metro did. I have a couple of heavy jack stands, but most of the time I use the smaller one's because the Honda is already so low to the ground.

In any case, good luck with the exchange.

I have plenty of regular tools, I just need more wrenches and air tools, really, so yeah, I'm fine there.

I'm talking about the d15z1! After graduation I'll prolly slap the d15b8 head on though, :p

Car parts or some kind of jack or maybe engine hoist???

My dad bought me a 3 ton floor jack, and 3 ton jack stands. He also got me a oil pan that you dump oil. We rarely work on his car or my mom's car but we always work on my car. If it wasn't for my POS car I would of never had that stuff. If your parents get you **** just get some american pos car that keeps breaking stuff and in a year or two your garage will be full of tools.

seriously, please read the rules of posting on the forum.

How's the swap coming, I just asked you, now it's your turn to reply, m8. I'll be anxiously waiting for a few minutes while I cook my dinner, :p

I can't wait to see some numbers.

What injectors will you be using? VX I assume.

Day 1... sorta...

Started out by removing the impossible pin, as well as the axles. To get the axle nuts off I had to have someone push on the brakes. Since I was working solo, I had my lovely assistant help me.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/brick.jpg

AFter this I was able to remove the axles rather easily. I was surpirsed how easy it really is. I did notice a torn boot while I was down there, so it's good that I'm taking everything apart.

Here is the first axle:

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/axle1.jpg

And the second:

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/axle2.jpg

Oh yeah, it helps to drain the transmission fluid before you remove the axles *hits head*

Anyway, next step was to remove the hood:

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/hood.jpg

And a close up of the Dual Point Fuel Injection which will soon be gone:

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/dpfi.jpg

I removed a bunch of stuff today: exhaust header, battery, intake box, hoses, etc. I drained the coolant and the oil. I also removed the power steering pump thing.

The clouds started rolling in and I felt sprinkles. Fearing rain I packed up for the day:

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/rain.jpg

I then took an hour (or was it two?) to assemble the engine hoist for tomorrow. I had lots of issues and currently my vice grips are stuck inside of the crane. It's a mess, but it's almost ready.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/hoist.jpg

Just curious, what should I get to pull the engine out of the bay? Is there a chain set made specifically for this? I'd prefer to not use rope.

Also, how in the world do I remove the A/C condenser? Anyone?

You should get a chain, autozone loans them, I do believe.

Anyway, I believe the condenser should just bolt to the car and then the lines snap in/out. I did a few lines at work and assisted with a condesner and it was all just bolts and snapping things together, *shrug*

You should get a chain, autozone loans them, I do believe.

Anyway, I believe the condenser should just bolt to the car and then the lines snap in/out. I did a few lines at work and assisted with a condesner and it was all just bolts and snapping things together, *shrug*

"just bolts on"... yeah, where exactly? I can see where the bracket bolts on, but I can't remove the bracket. As for hte lines, I'd like to leave them in place and not screw when them. Maybe I can check the helms (if I can find it tonight) and it'll show me.

Ah, well I dunno where, that would seem like the easy part to me, I've never cared to look, mehbe you need to pull the front end off, :p

Anyway, if you find your way to the junkyard, look me up a mount?

Why are you trying to remove the condenser? Are you taking AC out of the car completely? Or are you talking about the AC compressor?

I use an engine balancer (about $30) in conjunction with the hoist to pull the engine. It's pretty much a lead screw and a place to attach two chains (come with the balancer). I usually put one chain on the head where the PS pump bolts on and one where the starter bolts on. I remove both the starter and the PS pump bracket first. I like the balancer because you need to tilt the motor up to pull it out from the top. This is NOT how they do it at the factory or the dealership...there engines come and go from the bottom, but I don't have a lift yet.

You can kind of see a balancer on the end of the hoist in THIS (http://www.mymg.com/images/Engine%20Rebuild/Its%20as%20big%20as%20the%20car.jpg) picture.

yea dax is giving you the correct setup to use. ive done a helped a little with a swap with old seat belts.

thats also what the local junkyards use to pull motors.

Nice work, Matt. I love your assistant. (I usually wedge a snow brush between the seat and the pedal when I do that.)

When I look at (and write) these DIY threads, I sometimes get the impression that everybody here is nuts. The things we do for MPG. :D

Good luck!

Why are you trying to remove the condenser? Are you taking AC out of the car completely? Or are you talking about the AC compressor?


Compressor, sorry.

I'm trying to remove the A/C from the engine so that when I pull it out the entire A/C system won't come with it. I've removed two of the bolts holding the A/C bracket on, but I can't get to the other two. I'm certain there is an easy way to remove the compressor from the bracket, but the engine is so caked with old oil that I can't see anything.

I did just find my official honda shop manual (thanks Diemaster) so I think they'll have something useful in there.

As soon as the compressor is unbolted I'm going to go to Autozone and get the balancer chain. I will then yank this sucker. The rest of the day will be wiring MPFI and obd1 into this car. I'll also spend the day transferring things like A/C to the new engine, as well as the PS bracket. Maybe if I'm ambitious I'll be able to put the new engine in tomorrow, but don't hold your breath :)

There are four 12 mm bolts (very long) that hold the compressor to the bracket. They are between the radiator and the compressor. Take the bottom ones out first, or you'll be sorry. Two on top, two on bottom.

Once you unbolt the compressor, you can simply let the compressor sit on the front crossmember, or if you decide to remove the front crossmember, you can zip tie the compressor to one of the hard lines on the chassis nearby (what I currently have done for my 5-spd conversion).

There are four 12 mm bolts (very long) that hold the compressor to the bracket. They are between the radiator and the compressor. Take the bottom ones out first, or you'll be sorry. Two on top, two on bottom.

Once you unbolt the compressor, you can simply let the compressor sit on the front crossmember, or if you decide to remove the front crossmember, you can zip tie the compressor to one of the hard lines on the chassis nearby (what I currently have done for my 5-spd conversion).

Cool. Just looked at the helms and it looks good. I'll be going out shortly to try to remove it, just as soon as I get my coffee.

more work done today. I'm afraid I'm not going to be done by tomorrow like I had planned. THis may roll into the weekend or next week, which is unforunate.

Anyway... pictures.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/readytogo.jpg

All chained up and ready to go.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/readytogo2.jpg

I had to drive to four places before I found someone who had the engine balancer. I ended up just buying it at Checker for way too much money.

It kept raining off and on today, which was REALLY annoying.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/rain2.jpg


Here is the engine part way out:

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/partout.jpg

Getting this thing to tilt and not hit the master cylinder with the alternator and avoid the A/C lines is next to impossible...

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/allout.jpg

All out!

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/allout2.jpg

Here is the engine in it's resting place.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/dirty1.jpg

Look how dirty it is.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/dirty2.jpg

Next I need to transfer the starter, alternator, wiring, A/C bracket, PS bracket, engine mounts, and other fun things to the new engine.

Oh, here was the one casualty of the removal:

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/fan.jpg

I'll be going to the junkyard tomorrow or Saturday to get a new radiator fan and see if I can track down a rear transmission mount for SVOBoy.

Advice to anyone reading this and thinking of swapping their engine:

Remove the master cylinder AND the radiator first. I probably could have saved 3 hours today had I just done that to begin with.

Nice work, Matt. I'm jealous...it looks like so much fun (once you ignore the obvious problems)!

Matt: Glad to see you got the engine out. After seeing your picture's, I think I am going to stick with pulling the cross member from underneath and bring the whole thing out the bottom. However, I would recomend pulling the radiator in any case. It just gives you a lot more access and you don't risk putting a hole in the radiator.

On your fan, what's broken? If it's just that one spar on the housing, maybe you could fix it with some fiberglass in the one section.

On your 600, I woke up in the middle of the night, and it ocurred to me that if your changing your ecu and the dpfi, maybe you could hang onto all of your part's and use that for your 600. Since the DPFI put's the fuel into the throat, based on the throttle position, maybe you could just cut off the two outer intakes and seal them shut, and just use the inner two on your other car. Anyway's, a thought.

Matt: Glad to see you got the engine out. After seeing your picture's, I think I am going to stick with pulling the cross member from underneath and bring the whole thing out the bottom. However, I would recomend pulling the radiator in any case. It just gives you a lot more access and you don't risk putting a hole in the radiator.

On your fan, what's broken? If it's just that one spar on the housing, maybe you could fix it with some fiberglass in the one section.

On your 600, I woke up in the middle of the night, and it ocurred to me that if your changing your ecu and the dpfi, maybe you could hang onto all of your part's and use that for your 600. Since the DPFI put's the fuel into the throat, based on the throttle position, maybe you could just cut off the two outer intakes and seal them shut, and just use the inner two on your other car. Anyway's, a thought.

HAHA... I actually considered using the DPFI for the n600, but I couldn't use the ECU unless I chipped it. There is a huge difference in displacement.

As for the engine, I think dropping it through the bottom might be the best bet for hondas, especialy since that's how they were put in the car.

Oh well... as least now I have a cherry picker to play with :P

removing the radiator yes

master cylinder no, waaaay too annoying.

Matt: I think that the cherry picker would be a great tool, anyway's. You could just drop the motor down, instead of lifting it up.

Anyway, on using the DPFI system, I would think that the smaller volume would be handled by less throttle plate opening?

Matt: I think that the cherry picker would be a great tool, anyway's. You could just drop the motor down, instead of lifting it up.

Anyway, on using the DPFI system, I would think that the smaller volume would be handled by less throttle plate opening?

I'll start a thread about this, as I've been thinking of converting the n600 to EFI.

removing the radiator yes

master cylinder no, waaaay too annoying.
My thoughts exactly. I've never had a problem with the MC, and wouldn't dare remove it unless absolutely necessary. Bench bleeding sucks.

Congrats on your first (i think) engine pull! Isn't it exhillarating?! :p

Question: If the old motor is obd0 and the new is obd1, will the accessory items even swap over (alternator, etc) w/o modding it? Mak

Question: If the old motor is obd0 and the new is obd1, will the accessory items even swap over (alternator, etc) w/o modding it? Mak

I think so. Take a look on Honda-tech.com the have tons of info on engine swaps.

I wish I had a HF......

Question: If the old motor is obd0 and the new is obd1, will the accessory items even swap over (alternator, etc) w/o modding it? Mak

They will swap without a problem. Honda was either brilliant and really cheap in their decision to make everything compatible for a large number of years.

Matt:

In thinking about it, I have a observation/suggestion. When you pulled the motor, I think that one reason you may have had it tight is that you pulled it straight up, it look's like, from your picture's. What I would suggest when you put it back in is to use the balance bar to set it so the transmission is hanging down, to the left, and the front of the motor is hanging up and to the right. Then you just bring it down into the engine bay and using the balance beam, bring the center of gravity back towards the middle, so that the front of the engine swing's down and in and the transmission come's up and in. Hope maybe that will help some.

Matt:

In thinking about it, I have a observation/suggestion. When you pulled the motor, I think that one reason you may have had it tight is that you pulled it straight up, it look's like, from your picture's. What I would suggest when you put it back in is to use the balance bar to set it so the transmission is hanging down, to the left, and the front of the motor is hanging up and to the right. Then you just bring it down into the engine bay and using the balance beam, bring the center of gravity back towards the middle, so that the front of the engine swing's down and in and the transmission come's up and in. Hope maybe that will help some.

That was part of the problem. I actually ended up using rope to support the transmission on the left side after a number of unsuccessful lifts. The chain just wasn't long enough to lift it the way I wanted to. I also left the starter on so I couldn't use those bolt holes.

In retrospect I think I should use one of the engine mounts to help with the angle.

Eh, I do believe that putting it in is going to be much easier than taking it now, at least now that I know what I'm doing a little bit better.

Well, to be honest, every time I do something I have to relearn about 50% of what I had just finally figured out, the last time I did it. I only do it when I have to, on my own car's, so I forget a lot in between, except I remember doing that once and I thought I had figured some of that stuff out.

The frustrating/interesting thing is that if you have to do it again, fairly soon, it goe's much quicker. The bad thing for me is that means I am doing something over, because I goofed something up. Ying-Yang

Well, to be honest, every time I do something I have to relearn about 50% of what I had just finally figured out, the last time I did it. I only do it when I have to, on my own car's, so I forget a lot in between, except I remember doing that once and I thought I had figured some of that stuff out.

The frustrating/interesting thing is that if you have to do it again, fairly soon, it goe's much quicker. The bad thing for me is that means I am doing something over, because I goofed something up. Ying-Yang

I really hope that I don't get the engine in and then have to remove it again due to some mistake I made.

I usually go to the junkyards to practice part removal. I can totally screw up and it only cost the the $2 admission.

Today's plans include: Wiring. It's been raining cats and dogs here for the past few hours, so I'm waiting for the sun to come out before I tackle reinsertion of the new engine. I also have to transfer the components over to the new engine.

I just purchased a butane powered soldering iron which will get really hot and be totally portable. I think it's going to be better than my cheap electric soldering iron. AND i can keep it in my car for any emergencies I encounter.

Here is the question for the day. The new engine has say here with no oil for months now. Am I going to damage it when I put the engine into the car, put oil in, and start it up? Is there something I can do beforehand that will prevent potential damage?

Matt: I don't think their is much you can do, on the Honda, besides make sure you have fresh oil and start it up. I don't think that you can get the pump to pull enough, by turning it over by hand, to get much oil into the system. With the pump on the front of the crankshaft, I don't think their is much else you can do.

You can pull the oil pressure sensor and try to put some oil under pressure in through their, but I can't think of a good way to do that.

I've had several engine's that had been sitting for a good time and then I woke them back up and overall I didn't do anything special.

Thought: One thing you can do is to put some oil into your cylinder's through the spark plug holes, before you start it up, and then turn the engine over by the crank bolt. That would at least get some fresh oil on the cylinder walls. The only problem you will have is that it will spit oil/smoke out the exhaust for the first 5 minutes or so after you first start it.

Matt, I don't have anything constructive to say, but if you haven't gone to the junkyard yet, I need a shift boot and the thing to attach it to the center console, :p

Just redid all of my solders today on the engine harness. The liquid electrical tape was just not going to work.

I also wired up the ignitor (obd0 and obd1 have different plugs). I'm going to wait to wire up the distributor once the vehicle is in the car.

Tomorrow I'll finish the wiring and MAYBE get the engine back in if I have time. I'm going to use an engine mount from a obd1 engine in hopes that I won't have any problems.

more pics please

Keep going Matt!

Check out my 5-spd conversion thread in a little while. I'll have pictures of how I yanked my engine.

Keep going Matt!

Check out my 5-spd conversion thread in a little while. I'll have pictures of how I yanked my engine.

Thanks. I did more wiring last night. I'm essentially making my own harness after all is said and done. I'm wiring up an extra plug for easy engine removal in the future. It seems that doing wiring the right way is a PITA.

It seems that doing wiring the right way is a PITA.

Definately. But the finished product is SO nice. Be sure to check out my thread in a little...you'll see how unnecessarily deep I'm diving into wiring, just so it looks stock and everything unplugs.

Definately. But the finished product is SO nice. Be sure to check out my thread in a little...you'll see how unnecessarily deep I'm diving into wiring, just so it looks stock and everything unplugs.

I was just telling Compaq via IM that the plug I'm using isn't big enough. I'm going to have to go back to the junkyard today to find more wiring plugs and redo the ones I've already done.

I'll give you as much as possible. I started making my own harness a while ago for obd0->obd1, but I decided it was going to be easier to buy one pre-made from www.rywire.com (http://www.rywire.com). It cost $130 and has instructions that come with it.

I've checked the site, they sell an obd0-obd1 ECU conversion harness for $104 (w/o shipping) and a ECU/Distributor adapter/VTEC subharness for $190. Which one should I go for? I could probably make my own, but the shear hassle would keep me from getting this project rolling and end in frustration. If I got the ECU one what else is left to change over, assuming the engine I receive has all nec. sensors? Thanks, Mak

I've checked the site, they sell an obd0-obd1 ECU conversion harness for $104 (w/o shipping) and a ECU/Distributor adapter/VTEC subharness for $190. Which one should I go for? I could probably make my own, but the shear hassle would keep me from getting this project rolling and end in frustration. If I got the ECU one what else is left to change over, assuming the engine I receive has all nec. sensors? Thanks, Mak

Personally, I say that if you've already got an ECU jumper harness, go buy (if you don't already have) a HELM manual (~$40) and do the rest of the wiring yourself.

I usually go to the junkyards to practice part removal. I can totally screw up and it only cost the the $2 admission.



OMG. Dude that was funny. I almost choked to death on my coffee when I read that!

I've checked the site, they sell an obd0-obd1 ECU conversion harness for $104 (w/o shipping) and a ECU/Distributor adapter/VTEC subharness for $190. Which one should I go for? I could probably make my own, but the shear hassle would keep me from getting this project rolling and end in frustration. If I got the ECU one what else is left to change over, assuming the engine I receive has all nec. sensors? Thanks, Mak

If you like wiring, just get the ECU harness. Just email ryan at rywire and he'll know what you'll need.

If you don't like wiring and you happen to have a spare d15z1 engine harness laying around (along with an extra harness for your car) I'd send them in and have them do all of the wiring for you. I believe the $190 item requires you to send in two harnesses and you'll get one back.

My engine came with all of the plugs and all had a good amount of wire on them.

Oh, you're also going to need an EGR control box, which is unique to the VX. You can get them for about $20 on honda-tech.

Your best bet is to email ryan and tell him what you have and to tell him what you want. Be certain to mention that you heard to use him b/c of this website.

OMG. Dude that was funny. I almost choked to death on my coffee when I read that!

Glad you liked it...

and it's totally 100% true. most of what I know on parts removal is because of practice at the junkyard.

Oh, you're also going to need an EGR control box, which is unique to the VX. You can get them for about $20 on honda-tech.

I may have one laying around. Want me to check?

C'mon people you can do your own ecu conversion harnesses, I did mine in about 1:30 and it was easy, worked perfectly, and greatly improved my wiring skillzzz.

I may have one laying around. Want me to check?

I'd post it up for sale in the event that someone here wants one. I bought one a few months ago.

I am just now beginning to gather parts for the build, the HF tranny that came stock on my HF is adequate (I've only driven the car 50 miles total, and that was in October) good clutch, etc. I'm mechanically inclined but wiring (and the automatic transmission in general) are blacks arts to me for now. I can't read a schematic very well and my soldering skills are average, maybe less, hence the need for a pre-made harness. I'll have to find the EGR box, VX harness connectors that aren't included in the rywire conversion (if I get it), and brush up on my HELMS. Any problems that any of you who have performed (performing) this swap had and their solutions would be great. It's my first true motor swap with limited tools and very limited time but it's virtually essential I do it right the first time. My current DD ('85 CRX Si, 220k miles, still 43 mpg) is in dire need of a head/re-ring rebuild (valve guides worn, compression low in 1 cyl, poss. head gasket, etc). Thanks, Mak

YAY!

Wiring is done... well, at least this stage.

Today I converted from Dual Point Fuel Injection to Multi-Point Fuel Injection. This included running four wires to the engine bay, which are the white wires in the picture below. The Red wire is a wire needed for the EGR Control Box (special for the Civic VX)

Two of the wires are for injectors 2 and 4, and the other two wires are for the distributor.

Anyway... here is my wiring with the obd0->obd1 conversion harness in-tact.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/wiring-a.jpg

And the wires on the right are leading to a plug I installed to ensure easy removal of the engine if I need to the in the future, which is located here:

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/wiring-b.jpg

I added the extra plug for future ease. I'm not so sure the wiring on the engine is 100% pretty, but it'll do for now.

I'm also having a bit of an issue with the speedometer cable. It just fell otu of my car today, so I'm considering just switching to the electronic VSS for now and getting a new cluster on ebay. This will also ensure that I can use the SuperMID when/if I get one.

I know for a fact that I wired up my injectors incorrectly, but I'll most just fix those after the engine is in. I'll just depin and repin the conversion harness instead of tearing into the closed wiring harness that is already complete.

Started the day convinced I'd get the engine in. I cleaned up a little in the garage, moved the d15b2 (the old engine), and went to the junkyard to get a new engine mount for the new engine. I've been told to use the mount from the old engine, but since it won't come off I just went to get a new one instead.

Went to the junkyard and got the mount. Drove home. Surprise, the mount doesn't fit. I was under the impression that the engine mount is just the top part. Turns out the entire mount also includes the part that attaches to the engine block itself. Typicaly newbie mistake, but it was mine to make.

Ignorant of this, I proceeded certain that the other mount I had (from a 92 civic) would work. here it is:

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/eg_mount.jpg

I managed to get the engine in! Hooray! Oh, for anyone planning on swapping an engine the same way I did, I'd recommend removing the front and rear engine mount and attaching them after the engine is in place.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/engine_in1.jpg

So it's all in and ready to rock, except the drivers side mount (the one above) isn't working correctly.

I'm convinced I can fix it with a hacksaw. For whatever reason i think I can just cut off the tabs on the side (metal interior) and it will fit. So i buy a hacksaw and start cutting. 45 minutes later I have this:

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/eg_mount2.jpg

here is a picture my wife took of me screwing with the stupid air conditioning compressor trying to get it to fit while I put the engine in. I actually toyed with the idea of just removing the entire a/c system today because it's so darn annoying to try to put the engine in while the compressor keeps getting in the way.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/me.jpg

So with the engine in and the mount cut, I start cussing because the mount still doesn't fit.

So I have to pull the new engine out.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/engine_out1.jpg

at this point I'm upset because I had to pull the engine AND because I keep losing my 10mm socket. I've been through 4 of those sockets.

So now I have to remove the crank pulley in order to access the engine mount bolts. i have to do this for the new and the old engine. Luckily for me I have Dax's 2x4 trick to speed things up (see first page of this thread).

With the new (or should I say old?) mount installed, I had to trim the plastic on the timing belt shield so it fits. See picture below:

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/ef_mount1.jpg

After wasting all day on this, I am finishing up and I notice my cylinder cover bolt keeps spinning.

Yep. You guessed it. Busted.

I've included a zoomed-in version on the left of the image.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/hole1.jpg

Can anyone recommend what to do about this hole? I would use epoxy or something (as I have the piece that broke off as well) but I'm afraid it will fall off again and screw with my rocker arms.

well that sucks. Hopefully tommorow you'll have better luck and finally start it up on Tuesday or Wed.

Matt -

That sucks about all your hardships, but welcome to the world of engine swapping! :D

About the broken casting - there isn't too much you can do about it. Lucky for you, that isn't a very important nut/stud. If I were you, I would just super-glue the chrome 10 mm nut to the valve cover and call it a day. Oh yeah, you'll also have to super glue the metal washer down that the nut goes over. Best of luck with your intial cranking, and don't get too frustrated...it's ok to walk away for a few hours!

Yay for matt! You're one crazy guy, I must say, but it's going, and you're learning a ton...how do you get so nondirty!?

You can ask jared, I was covered in black, when I washed my hair I had dirty falling out, :p, I'm so jealous!

Anyway, vtec-EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEe.

I actually toyed with the idea of just removing the entire a/c system today because it's so darn annoying to try to put the engine in while the compressor keeps getting in the way.

DON'T DO IT. When I replaced my engine I ripped out my A/C becuase it would be easyer and didnt work anyway. Well man oh man do I wish I had it now. I may actually try to put it back in.

Nice progress!

That sucks that you had to pull the engine back out of there though. lol.

Especially if you didn't have any help. I've done my engine by myself every time and it still sucks each and every time.

About the valve cover bolt... that actually happened to me once. The threads stripped out and as I was installing a helicoil the casting cracked off just like yours. All I did was JB weld that sucker back up! lol

I cleaned both surfaces really well and applied a thin layer of JB weld to them. Then I put the chunk back on the rocker arm and let it dry for a few days. When it was dry, I drilled and tapped the hole again and inserted another helicoil. It's held fine ever since. Maybe not the best way of repair, but it was easy and cheap.

You could also completely fill that hole with JB weld and drill and tap fresh threads for that bolt. Anyways, just an idea. Those threads don't have to be super strong because they only have to hold 7 lbs of torque anyways. I don't even torque mine to that any more, I just hand tighten them. I have stripped out more of those threads than I would like to remember.

Nice progress!

That sucks that you had to pull the engine back out of there though. lol.

Especially if you didn't have any help. I've done my engine by myself every time and it still sucks each and every time.

About the valve cover bolt... that actually happened to me once. The threads stripped out and as I was installing a helicoil the casting cracked off just like yours. All I did was JB weld that sucker back up! lol

I cleaned both surfaces really well and applied a thin layer of JB weld to them. Then I put the chunk back on the rocker arm and let it dry for a few days. When it was dry, I drilled and tapped the hole again and inserted another helicoil. It's held fine ever since. Maybe not the best way of repair, but it was easy and cheap.

You could also completely fill that hole with JB weld and drill and tap fresh threads for that bolt. Anyways, just an idea. Those threads don't have to be super strong because they only have to hold 7 lbs of torque anyways. I don't even torque mine to that any more, I just hand tighten them. I have stripped out more of those threads than I would like to remember.

I think for now I'm just going to leave it. The last thing I want to do is tap a hole and have little tiny metal filings inside my cylinder head.

If it doesn't hold down though (if oil comes out of the valve cover) I will most likely jb weld the old one on and heli coil it just as you said. I have a heli-coil set for 6mm bolts, and that's exactly the size of this one.

The engine is in... hooray! I wired up the distributor thanks to the folks at rywire. I now need to fix injector firing order and put the last engine mount on. After that I'll be putting the A/C and power steering on, and then it'll be time to get the vaccum hoses figured out.

Engine is in

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/engine.jpg

here are my vacuum woes. I have labeled each mystery hose in hopes that Someone can help me.

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/vacuum1.jpg

I'm holding the old Purge Solenoid from my old engine. This engine doesn't have a nipple for this valve, so I need to tap into another source. Can I do it at E below?

B goes to the fuel filter. Is it good to stay where it is?

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/vacuum2.jpg

This is the EGR control box for the Civic VX. It's unique to the VX. It helps with emissions and other stuff. There are two vacuum hoses here, C and D. Where do they go?

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/vacuum3.jpg

E is on the back of the intake manifold. Where does this go? Is this my own source of vacuum on this engine?

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/vacuum4.jpg

F and G are not vacuum hoses, but I'm assuming they go together. Do I plug F into G? I believe it's fuel... hence it being plugged up to prevent leaking (don't ask... my driveway smelled like gas for 2 days and I had NO idea why... geesh Matt).

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/vacuum5.jpg

F looks like the fuel return line, shove it on the back of the FPR, where G is. It might be too small/large/short or something like that, I had to get one from an EG to get it to fit properly and it still didn't fit well enough (but didn't leak, so happy ben).

A: Gets vacuum somewhere over by the MC on the plenum I believe
B: Is good on the charcoal canister valve (i think thats were it is right?)
C: Goes to the EGR Valve
D: Vacuum on manifold at point E
E: See D
F: Goes to G
G: See F

There ya go!

A: Gets vacuum somewhere over by the MC on the plenum I believe
B: Is good on the charcoal canister valve (i think thats were it is right?)
C: Goes to the EGR Valve
D: Vacuum on manifold at point E
E: See D
F: Goes to G
G: See F

There ya go!

Beat me to it!

Except I would just take G off all together and hook F right up to the fuel pressure regulator... but whatever works.

I forgot how small those intake manifolds are. lol

Beat me to it!

Except I would just take G off all together and hook F right up to the fuel pressure regulator... but whatever works.

I forgot how small those intake manifolds are. lol

Yea, only one of those hoses is needed. I think I had to use a worm drive on mine to get it to hold pressure.

That intake manifold is REALLY small. I'm always surprised how quick the car is with just a d15z1 mated to an HF trans. I can keep up with my friends 01 Durango... =)

A: Gets vacuum somewhere over by the MC on the plenum I believe


The only problem is that there is no spot for it on my intake manifold. See this picture:

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic.php?u=2314PN8lX&i=635465

Normally there would be a spot for a vacuum hose here, but since this is a Japanese Intake Manifold it doesn't have one. Can I tap the purge solenoid into E (above) with a t-connector?

Normally there would be a spot for a vacuum hose here, but since this is a Japanese Intake Manifold it doesn't have one. Can I tap the purge solenoid into E (above) with a t-connector?

Yep, E would be my choice. The poor IAT and TPS took a beating in shipping!! I wonder if your compression is higher than a USDM d15z1?

Can I tap the purge solenoid into E (above) with a t-connector?

Yup.

Vacuum is vacuum. :)

So whether you take it straight off the intake from a nipple or install a T and share the vacuum with another source it should all be the same.

I would just use a cheap vacuum T if I were you. WAY easier than tapping a new port.

Nice TPS and IAT sensors by the way :( Where'd you buy that engine from?

I'm so excited for you Matt! Once I get my HF tranny in, I may just have to do a D15Z1 swap!!!!!

I'm so excited for you Matt! Once I get my HF tranny in, I may just have to do a D15Z1 swap!!!!!

You mean once your engine is back in your might just have to pull it out again? :P

I'll see if I have enough vacuum hose here to finish this today. I still need to get my injectors figured out. After that it's just a matter of connecting the AC, PS, shift linkage, and axles and I'm good to go :)

Nice TPS and IAT sensors by the way :( Where'd you buy that engine from?

Eh, broken sensors are an expected casualty of imported engines. I obtained replacements from the junkyard for free.

I got the motor from Nippon-Motors in Southern California. Shipping was ridiculous, but it was worth it. I think I've sunk over $1000 into this swap when you count the engine, the tranny, the ECU, the conversion harness, the engine hoist/balancer, and other various tools I've picked up along the way.

Well worth it though IMHO.

Well worth it though IMHO.

Definately. ESPECIALLY the investment in tools. I love buying tools, even ones that rarely get used...they're great to pull off the shelf when you need them.

As for pulling my engine again...I'd almost be willing to wager large sums of money that it will be out at least one time within the next 365.25 days for SOMETHING. I always find some reason to tinker hard enough to pull the motor. :p

vacuum hoses all wired up. The area near my fuel filters is a mess of wires and hoses. I hope it's all plugged in correctly.

I'm having the most difficult time getting the plugs off of the injectors. Has anyone else ever had this problem?

I'm having the most difficult time getting the plugs off of the injectors. Has anyone else ever had this problem?

Yea, they can be a pain... the way I do it is by using a small flat screwdriver and pulling over one side of the metal "ring" and then kinda lifting up on that side of the plug so that even if the "ring" does fall back into place, it doesn't lock the plug down. Then pop up the other side and you're done!

Yea, they can be a pain... the way I do it is by using a small flat screwdriver and pulling over one side of the metal "ring" and then kinda lifting up on that side of the plug so that even if the "ring" does fall back into place, it doesn't lock the plug down. Then pop up the other side and you're done!

I use the exact same method, except I use a pocket knife. Once you've done it about 40 times, you get the hang of it. ;)

I usually use my finger nails, but then again, I don't think most people grow their finger nails out as long as I do (so lazy...)

Going to the junkyard in a few minutes to get the power steering bracket. I'll also pick up a new throttle cable from an EX in the junkyard because I can't find my freaking cable that I bought a few months ago.

Word to the wise... organize.

Oh, I bolted up the catalytic converter last night. Hopefully the downpipe will work or I'm going to need to get a custom piece made.

Word to the wise... organize.yup. it will save you hours in the end.

Oh, I bolted up the catalytic converter last night. Hopefully the downpipe will work or I'm going to need to get a custom piece made.

Which B pipe do you have? If its the style with the undercar cat, you can use the stock cat or a test pipe, if its the style without it, it will bolt directly up. I believe all aftermarket catbacks will require the use of a test pipe.

Which B pipe do you have? If its the style with the undercar cat, you can use the stock cat or a test pipe, if its the style without it, it will bolt directly up. I believe all aftermarket catbacks will require the use of a test pipe.

Not exactly sure what a B pipe is... here is my setup. I am using the 89 LX exhaust, but I'm hoping the cat and downpipe you sent me bolt right onto it. If not I will try to get the downpipe from a CRX HF or a STD to see if they fit. If that's a bust I'll just go to a muffler shop and have them make a custom piece.

Honda exhaust systems (from the area of the rear x-member back) consist of 2 different sections, the front one is called the b pipe, and I suppose you could call the "axle back" part the c-pipe. Where is the stock cat on a 89 LX? Is it near the head or right under the rear x-member?

Honda exhaust systems (from the area of the rear x-member back) consist of 2 different sections, the front one is called the b pipe, and I suppose you could call the "axle back" part the c-pipe. Where is the stock cat on a 89 LX? Is it near the head or right under the rear x-member?

It is near the rear x-member

It is near the rear x-member

Ok, then you'll either want dueling cats, replace the lower cat with a testpipe, or replace the b pipe with a standard civic hatchback b pipe (non dx/si). My stock HF exhaust had long been gone, and I just used a standard civic b pipe to replace it. I still have no axle back section, but the car is pretty quiet without it.

OMG!

I spent all day trying to get the freaking A/C condenser back on... I overlooked the little pulley that drops so the belt can get on...

"finally," I thought, "i'll get the AC condenser and the power steering pump on and I'll almost be done."

Someone PLEASE shoot me

So after wrestling with the power steering pump for about an hour trying to get the belt on (BTW, the PS bracket doesn't fit correctly due to the crooked engine mount) I realized that one of my worst nightmares was about to come true.

The crank pulley on this engine, which is featured on the first page of this thread (the one with the rope going through it) is actually for a 92-95 civic. My power steering pump is from a 88-91 Civic. Honda, in their infinite wisdom, decided to change the style of belt used for the power steering pump between 91 and 92 models. This means that I'm going to have to remove my crank pulley (AGAIN!) and replace it with the crank pulley from my old engine.

Of course if you don't have power steering this isn't an issue.

I'm about ready to break something. It's one thing after another with this car... hopefully someone in the future will read this and know what mistakes NOT to make.

So, let's recap.

1. With this swap you can fit two of the four bolts for the power steering bracket into the engine. I'm sure that this will actually be enough. If the PS pump ever falls off I'm just going to ditch it.

2. If you have power steering and are putting an engine from a 92+ civic into your car, be certain to switch crank pulleys. you need the one from your year of car, unless you want to also swap power steering pumps.

3. Don't work in the sun. It sucks.

So now that I'm about to remove the crank pulley again, can anyone tell me an easy way to do it with the engine in the car? Can I just use a breaker bar and get it off? Please don't tell me to pull the engine out... I just might cry.

Air gun. If you don't have the stuff, drive your *** to a shop and have them do it, :p

Who needs power steering anyway.

Air gun. If you don't have the stuff, drive your *** to a shop and have them do it, :p

Who needs power steering anyway.

This would be the perfect time to not have PS any more, but honestly the thought of going to the junkyard to get a new steering rack, etc... just seems like too much work.

Just ziptie the pump on then, :p

Just ziptie the pump on then, :p

you're forgetting that this won't fix the fact that the v-belt doesn't work on a serpentine pulley.

for the crank pulley question......is the motor hooked to the tranny and does the tranny have the axles in? (basically, are all the mechanicals from engine to rolling wheel installed?) if so there is an easy way to break the crank pulley bolt using the car itself as a tool. Turn the wheel all the way to the left (or take the wheel off if it won't clear a rachet plus extension) and access the pulley bolt w/ a long extension (or a few smaller ones in sequence) and a breaker bar (I use 1/2"). The trick is to make sure the wheels are on the ground, the car is in gear, and the parking brake is up. You wrench on the bolt, which would normally spin the engine assembly, except if it is hooked to the tranny and the tranny is in gear, so it's the bolt vs. the weight of the car. If the car is jacked up or all the wheels are off, pushing on the brake to lock the front rotors (I use a cinder block) is the best alternative. Many methods will work so long as the tranny is allowed to take the force out to the hubs/wheels. Hope that helps, Mak

This would be the perfect time to not have PS any more, but honestly the thought of going to the junkyard to get a new steering rack, etc... just seems like too much work.

I've swapped 4-5 racks in the last 2-3 months, I've got them down to about 45 min in and out. if you don't have the exhaust and the shift linkage hooked up already, you're 1/3 the way there!

for the crank pulley question......is the motor hooked to the tranny and does the tranny have the axles in? (basically, are all the mechanicals from engine to rolling wheel installed?) if so there is an easy way to break the crank pulley bolt using the car itself as a tool. Turn the wheel all the way to the left (or take the wheel off if it won't clear a rachet plus extension) and access the pulley bolt w/ a long extension (or a few smaller ones in sequence) and a breaker bar (I use 1/2"). The trick is to make sure the wheels are on the ground, the car is in gear, and the parking brake is up. You wrench on the bolt, which would normally spin the engine assembly, except if it is hooked to the tranny and the tranny is in gear, so it's the bolt vs. the weight of the car. If the car is jacked up or all the wheels are off, pushing on the brake to lock the front rotors (I use a cinder block) is the best alternative. Many methods will work so long as the tranny is allowed to take the force out to the hubs/wheels. Hope that helps, Mak

IN short, the axles are not hooked up.

Hook up the axles, it only takes about 20 minutes, :p

Once again, the engine is out... sigh... at least I'm getting really good at pulling engines :P

I tried removing the crank pulley using the tried and true method, but the AC bracket got in the way. I recently lost my 14mm socket, so I'm off to autozone to get another one.

Does anyone know if they sell crank pulley bolts at autozone? Mine is getting kinda torn up from all of the stress I've been putting on it.

And the engine is back in... Tomorrow I'll reattach all of the hoses, wires, mounts, etc.. and then I'll finally get the belts (AC and PS) attached. As soon as that is done it's in with the axles, the throttle cable, the speedo cable, and the fuel line. In with oil and transmission fluid and then I try to start it up.

After that, of course, I repeat the entire swap because I screwed up something simple at the beginning.

After following this saga, I think I don't think I will be doing an engine swap. Rather, I will just buy the engine that I want with the car already attached up all proper like. :D

After following this saga, I think I don't think I will be doing an engine swap. Rather, I will just buy the engine that I want with the car already attached up all proper like. :D

you could just swap the cx tranny, you don't have to do an engine swap, you're already getting mid 60's.

BTW, if you were to sell your car right now how much would you ask?

A CX Tranny swap won't enable me to pick the kids up from day care after work without stopping at home to pick up the Outback first. This was a real PITA during school. I would like to have a HB before school starts again.

My Del Sol S is not much sought after so I won't get that much for it even with the low miles. I would be lucky to get 3500 for it.

A CX Tranny swap won't enable me to pick the kids up from day care after work without stopping at home to pick up the Outback first. This was a real PITA during school. I would like to have a HB before school starts again.

My Del Sol S is not much sought after so I won't get that much for it even with the low miles. I would be lucky to get 3500 for it.

Yeah, you might be able to get $4K for the Sol.

What generation hatchback are you looking to get? I got my 4th Gen for $950! :eek:

A CX Tranny swap won't enable me to pick the kids up from day care after work without stopping at home to pick up the Outback first. This was a real PITA during school. I would like to have a HB before school starts again.

My Del Sol S is not much sought after so I won't get that much for it even with the low miles. I would be lucky to get 3500 for it.

If you would of lived closer I can take it off your hands, but you live far.

It's in good condition?

Yes, good condition, no rust. One year old MAACO paint job from the previous owner. Not the best paint job but not bad unless you look close.

The kumho's on the 15" wheels will go with it. I am keeping the HX wheels with the Insight tires for my next car. I can have it shipped to you.

After following this saga, I think I don't think I will be doing an engine swap. Rather, I will just buy the engine that I want with the car already attached up all proper like. :D

In all honesty I'm having these issues because I'm putting a newer engine in my older car. If you were to do the same swap you'd probably have a very easy time.

Then again, swapping an engine won't give you back seats. :)

Oh Matt, it's okay! Personally, I'm starting to think an engine swap as easier than just a tranny swap, no hard time getting to things and tiliting and aligning, just pop it in on the mounts and bling bling.

Anyway, good lucky matt, you're ridic.

Oh Matt, it's okay! Personally, I'm starting to think an engine swap as easier than just a tranny swap, no hard time getting to things and tiliting and aligning, just pop it in on the mounts and bling bling.

Anyway, good lucky matt, you're ridic.

I was actually telling my wife this last night. If we ever need to fix her clutch or replace the transmission, etc it is going to be easier to pull the engine.

I'm actually able to pull an engine in about 40 minutes time after the radiator and axles have been pulled. I don't even want to think about pulling a transmission when the engine is still in the car.

Matt: You know when I suggested you just buy the hoist, I did not really intend for you to keep using it, so frequently. Did you get the crank pully swapped? On your crank bolt, I would think it might be the same size as the one of your old engine? You mentioned you could only get two bolts in on the power steering pump, it might be Ok, but my concern would be having a bolt bust the block, due to not enough bolt's. I would either use all 4 bolts or mount the pump, but don't put on the belt. Worst case, you can drive it without the pump, it is just a lot harder to turn, since the turn's ratio is much higher. Good Luck

On the sun, if you can find a way to swing it, you need to get one of those pop-up shade canopies, they help immensley

Matt: You know when I suggested you just buy the hoist, I did not really intend for you to keep using it, so frequently. Did you get the crank pully swapped? On your crank bolt, I would think it might be the same size as the one of your old engine? You mentioned you could only get two bolts in on the power steering pump, it might be Ok, but my concern would be having a bolt bust the block, due to not enough bolt's. I would either use all 4 bolts or mount the pump, but don't put on the belt. Worst case, you can drive it without the pump, it is just a lot harder to turn, since the turn's ratio is much higher. Good Luck

On the sun, if you can find a way to swing it, you need to get one of those pop-up shade canopies, they help immensley

LOL

I'm actually thinking of getting a giant drill bit today to widen the holes a little bit on the power steering bracket. that should enable me to get the bolts in alright.

Or, i cna just hacksaw the top part (the part that connects to the engine mount a little so it will fit correctly.

Drill the holes and if it's much bigger, just put a largee washer on it. 99% of the strength actually comes from the bracket being "squeazzed" between the bolt and the block, so you should be fine. It's similar to the "adjustment" slot's, you just will have a little more adjustment, but when you get it tightened down, it's same-same.

Yes, good condition, no rust. One year old MAACO paint job from the previous owner. Not the best paint job but not bad unless you look close.

The kumho's on the 15" wheels will go with it. I am keeping the HX wheels with the Insight tires for my next car. I can have it shipped to you.

Interesting Idea. But shipping would be around $700. What do you think of $4000 shipped??? also has the car been in previous accidents and is the title clean or is it a salvage?

engine back in
A/C on
PS pump on (need to modify the bracket still, but that can wait)
vacuum hoses back on
wiring back in it's spot
radiator back in
radiator fan back in (not perfect, but it'll do)

I need to reattach my cooling lines, change throttle cables and get my VSS hooked up.

Then it's getting a new oil filter, adding the oil, tranny fluid, coolant, and praying before starting the car.

Maybe you should build a remote starter, so you can stand back, way away, so if it goes bang, you won't hit your head on the roof, from being in the car.

Your getting their, just keep dogging it.

ALright... the new dilemna is the fuel line (from the fuel filter to the intake manifold).

Turns out that because of the EGR the fuel line wont' fit correctly. That is also the case for the obd1 fuel line I picked up off of ebay.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll be alble to find one at the junkyard that fits correctly.

ALright... the new dilemna is the fuel line (from the fuel filter to the intake manifold).

Turns out that because of the EGR the fuel line wont' fit correctly. That is also the case for the obd1 fuel line I picked up off of ebay.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll be alble to find one at the junkyard that fits correctly.

Is it the fuel line or the fuel rail thats the issue?

http://www.zealautowerks.com/images/egr1.jpg

http://www.zealautowerks.com/images/egr2.jpg

Is it the fuel line or the fuel rail thats the issue?

It's one or the other. Here is the problem:

Using the DPFI fuel line the line at the end bends in two differnet ways. One is about a 60 degree horizontal bend, and one is a 90 degree vertical bend. The vertical bend is what is killing me. The horizontal bend will fit on either parts, but I can't get the 90 degree vertical bend to fit on either of them.

I should look online to find the exact line I need.

I think I have the fuel line you need, if you can't find one. Its on my spare VX motor I think.

Spare Vx Motor!?

I think I have the fuel line you need, if you can't find one. Its on my spare VX motor I think.

If you have pictures I'd love it. I'll sketch up what the problem is and post it in a second. Feel free to chat with me on AIM if you have the time.

If you sell matt the fuel line will you sell me the engine?

If you have pictures I'd love it. I'll sketch up what the problem is and post it in a second. Feel free to chat with me on AIM if you have the time.
here ya go

http://www.gassavers.org/images/matt/swap/fuel.jpg
For the desired tube, either (or both) ends could also be totally straight and not bent to the side. I just can't have this vertical bending crap.

Matt, is that existing tube removable/cutable? You could probably get a pipe bending and flaring kit for $20-$30 and stick a new piece of stainless tubing in there (worst case scenario obviously).

For the desired tube, either (or both) ends could also be totally straight and not bent to the side. I just can't have this vertical bending crap.

I'll check this morning if I have that. If so I'll grab it and ship it your way.

I'll check this morning if I have that. If so I'll grab it and ship it your way.

Cool... I'm also going to go to the junkyard today and see what I can find.

Cool... I'm also going to go to the junkyard today and see what I can find.

Koo... Nice drawings BTW! =)

Koo... Nice drawings BTW! =)

BTW, is it possible for me to just buy the pieces and make my own hose with parts at PepBoys or Home Depot? I'm not opposed to that.

What about my engine? :'(

What about my engine? :'(

I think he is ignoring you Ben.

BTW, is it possible for me to just buy the pieces and make my own hose with parts at PepBoys or Home Depot? I'm not opposed to that.

That may be possible, I've never made fuel line with anything other than AN fittings myself.

What about my engine? :'(

My spare VX motor is about to toss a rod, but the head, etc is good. I'm about 95% sure I'm going to be putting my entire good VX swap up for sale though (motor, ecu, tranny, wiring). I'll be up/down-grading to a HX motor and boosting it (but keeping all the lean-burn tech), and it will be going into my 88 Si, which has a radio, full interior, etc. I know the mileage will probably drop into the mid 50's, but I need to make something I'm more likely to keep. Also, I'll be rebuilding and dropping my B18C setup into my HF, should be good for 12's NA.

BTW, is it possible for me to just buy the pieces and make my own hose with parts at PepBoys or Home Depot? I'm not opposed to that.

Matt: That line is a high pressure fuel line, for the injector's. The "stores" will tell you that you can't, it will leak, blah, blah, blah.

Baloney! You can cut off the crimped connector, rearrange or reorient the hose and put a worm screw clamp on it. I've put several on different cars and I haven't had them leak. The only thing to be mindful of is that it's preferable to have some barb thingies, I can't think of the right term, on the tubing, for the hoses to grip on, when you tighten down the hose clamps. If you want to be extra cautious, if you can get enough hose on the tube, use two clamps on each connection.

Good Luck!

I'm guessing you'll sell it all as a unit but if not I could really use the ECU (P07?) and wiring. I picked up a Z1 last week w/ side mount, intake box, and 4-wire O2 (California model? In North Carolina?) I still need the EGR box, a wiring conversion, and....eh it's all in my signature. Funny story about that engine...http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26783

Mak

I'm guessing you'll sell it all as a unit but if not I could really use the ECU (P07?) and wiring. I picked up a Z1 last week w/ side mount, intake box, and 4-wire O2 (California model? In North Carolina?) I still need the EGR box, a wiring conversion, and....eh it's all in my signature. Funny story about that engine...http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26783

Mak
Heh... I post on redpepperracing sometimes too. My wife (jenny on this forum) has a 87 CRX Si and repepperracing is my best friend when it comes to that car.

Oh yeah, California VXs pop up everywhere, even north carolina.

Heh... I post on redpepperracing sometimes too. My wife (jenny on this forum) has a 87 CRX Si and repepperracing is my best friend when it comes to that car.

Truer words never spoken...I've been helped by that site on my '85 CRX Si more than I can possibly remember. It is THE site for '84-87 Civic/CRX Hondas.

I have a request: I wanted to know what else I needed to gather before embarking on my own HF-Z1 quest. I have the engine (looks like all sensors, pan to the manifold complete, one side mount, stock intake box) and HF tranny (shift linkage, tranny, starter, HF flywheel). After rereading this thread a couple times, I've made a list for myself and anyone else who might want to follow you and Bunger:

1.) P07 ECU
2.) EGR box exculsive to the VX
3.) ECU conversion harness (I don't have the skills for that many wires yet)
4.) obd1 plugs for the distributor, VTEC, and VTEC oil pressure solenoid
5.) 5-wire O2 (mine came with a 4-wire, could possbily run the last one from the ECU?)
6.) driver's side mount from an obd1 car (got)
7.) 92-95 Civic HELMS Manual
8.) engine hoist
9.) anything else? (fuel lines different?)

My only other notes are I won't be running power steering (HF doesn't stock) or A/C (I can deal w/ windows down + tint). Keeping this list will cut prep time and especially install time if I have everything I need on day one of the swap. Thanks for any input, Mak

Truer words never spoken...I've been helped by that site on my '85 CRX Si more than I can possibly remember. It is THE site for '84-87 Civic/CRX Hondas.

I have a request: I wanted to know what else I needed to gather before embarking on my own HF-Z1 quest. I have the engine (looks like all sensors, pan to the manifold complete, one side mount, stock intake box) and HF tranny (shift linkage, tranny, starter, HF flywheel). After rereading this thread a couple times, I've made a list for myself and anyone else who might want to follow you and Bunger:

1.) P07 ECU
2.) EGR box exculsive to the VX
3.) ECU conversion harness (I don't have the skills for that many wires yet)
4.) obd1 plugs for the distributor, VTEC, and VTEC oil pressure solenoid
5.) 5-wire O2 (mine came with a 4-wire, could possbily run the last one from the ECU?)
6.) driver's side mount from an obd1 car (got)
7.) 92-95 Civic HELMS Manual
8.) engine hoist
9.) anything else? (fuel lines different?)

My only other notes are I won't be running power steering (HF doesn't stock) or A/C (I can deal w/ windows down + tint). Keeping this list will cut prep time and especially install time if I have everything I need on day one of the swap. Thanks for any input, Mak

I'll make a list for you later this afternoon. Don't buy anything yet :)

Do you have two fuel lines? If so, cut them in half and use the two ends you want - splice them together with a piece of metal and two hose clamps. Not clean, but it works! I've had to do this before...I think I used a leftover piece of metal from the hard coolant line that also has the hard air line that goes from the intake tube to the valve cover.

Just got back from the junkyard. The fuel line from the 89 CRX HF works perfectly. Mak, I'll respond to you after dinner.

No dice.

I installed the axles and then took the one bolt off holding the VSS in place so that I could fill the transmission with fluid.

The bolt came off, the little metal thing came off, and the VSS wouldn't budge.

Turns out I was supposed to remove it BEFORE I put the engine in.

So I tried to remove the fill hole, but it seems that after 160k miles that bolt doesn't want to move either. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and tomorrow will try to use the vice grips on it. Hopefully either hte VSS or the fill hole will budge and I'll be able to fill er up.

That being said, where do I get one of those cool caps with the clear vinyl tube coming out so that I can fill my transmission up?

Get the cap at autozone, that or the cone with the flexible hose and on/off valve.

You could shove some in the axle holes, :p

I would recommend filling at the VSS...MUCH easier. Remove the VSS bolt, then get some small channel locks and GENTLY grab the VSS at the base and twist. It should break loose.

You'll also want to remove the fill hole bolt so you know when it's full (oil coming out). Be sure and fill on level ground with the car on the ground.

I would recommend filling at the VSS...MUCH easier. Remove the VSS bolt, then get some small channel locks and GENTLY grab the VSS at the base and twist. It should break loose.


The problem of course, is that there is next to zero room to do anything back there on the VSS. I have wires, vacuum hoses, an intake manifold, and an engine mount in my way.

Bunger recommended getting a set of needle nose vice grips, putting them IN the VSS, and then twisting and pulling at the same time.

It's been soaking in pb blaster all night, so hopefully it's just really loose now.

Matt: If that doesn't work, just fill it through one of the half shaft holes. If you fill it till it's up to the edge of the seals, it will have plenty of oil and you'll be good to go.

Generally, if you get a bolt that is really rusted, you can use a Propane maxx torch, to heat the bolt red hot, at which point you can back it out. Generally this is more necessary on things like the exhaust manifold and places like that, but it might be a alternative consideration

good luck on the fill hole. i'll tell you what it took me to get it off on my crx:

we tried everything, but stripped the bolt a bit. using a torch, it came right off, though.

i'd suggest trying crow's feet. they're flat things that wrap around like a line wrench but have a hole in them for the socket.

after that i always break that bolt free out of the car. lesson learned.



even my haynes manual tells you that it can be a pain to remove that bolt.

I would generally like to NOT use a torch if possible. As you honda guys know there is almost no room for anything down there, so I'd probably ruin an axle or set my wiring harness on fire.

I will be buying a new set of six point wrenches today so that I can use it on this bolt. I'm also hoping that the VSS might come out now.

Worst case scenario will result in my filling up using the reverse light plug hole.

I agree with you. I wouldn't use the torch, unless you can't get it with the 6 point's and you can't fill it some other way. I just included the torch, for a last resort. If it was exhaust or something like that, then I'd use the torch, no question.

ARGH!

So I filled the transmission using the reverse light switch. I put new oil in the engine. I then noticed the transmission was leaking on the drivers side.

"Going to have to pull the axle and fix that seal it looks like, but for now I need to try to get this car started," I thought to myself.

I put coolant in the radiator.

"what's that noise?" Crap, it's the drain bolt and it's missing. i took it off when I drained the coolant and I have NO idea where it is.

"Screw it, I'll start it without coolant," I insisted. I have heard that you can run an engine for a while without coolant and have no problems.

I connect the battery, ensure all of the hoses are tight.

Put the key in.

The starter turns. The engine does not turn. Every so often I hear a grunting noise coming from the engine, which REALLY sucks on the battery when it happens.

I connect the wire to check CEL codes. Code 16 shows up, which is the fuel injector code. I then realize that the intake manifold/throttle body is covered up with tape. I remove the tape. I try to start a few more times and I cannot get the code to reappear.

I also can't get the car to start.


I have no Check Engine Lights. I do have fuel pressure. Unsure if I have spark or not as I don't have a spark plug socket. Will get one tomorrow.

It could also be the clutch. Maybe I need to tighten the clutch cable more.

It's very sad. The thought crossed my mind a few times to scrap it and get a VX, but what fun would that be?

ARGH!

So I filled the transmission using the reverse light switch. I put new oil in the engine. I then noticed the transmission was leaking on the drivers side.

"Going to have to pull the axle and fix that seal it looks like, but for now I need to try to get this car started," I thought to myself.

I put coolant in the radiator.

"what's that noise?" Crap, it's the drain bolt and it's missing. i took it off when I drained the coolant and I have NO idea where it is.

"Screw it, I'll start it without coolant," I insisted. I have heard that you can run an engine for a while without coolant and have no problems.

I connect the battery, ensure all of the hoses are tight.

Put the key in.

The starter turns. The engine does not turn. Every so often I hear a grunting noise coming from the engine, which REALLY sucks on the battery when it happens.

I connect the wire to check CEL codes. Code 16 shows up, which is the fuel injector code. I then realize that the intake manifold/throttle body is covered up with tape. I remove the tape. I try to start a few more times and I cannot get the code to reappear.

I also can't get the car to start.


I have no Check Engine Lights. I do have fuel pressure. Unsure if I have spark or not as I don't have a spark plug socket. Will get one tomorrow.

It could also be the clutch. Maybe I need to tighten the clutch cable more.

It's very sad. The thought crossed my mind a few times to scrap it and get a VX, but what fun would that be?

Ah...the woes and desperation has hit. Don't let it get you down Matt...it's a few simple goblins, and with a straight head, you'll chase them down and be glad you did.

First - starter turning but engine not turning...explain this please? Does it sound like it does when you hit the starter when the engine is running? Are you using an odd combination of starter and tranny?

Remember it takes fuel, spark, air, compression, and timing to have an engine run. Systematically check each one of these and you'll find your goblin.

From what I gathered from him online it's cranking but it sounds like it's not getting fuel or spark. Did you get the power for the injectors from the old ones? You're not using the old resistor box, are you?

keep at it! I could have just bought a VX/HX too, but besides the extra cost, I wouldn't be into my first swap and the knowledge I gain (and that you have gained) cannot be replicated elsewhere. Like Dax said, go at the problem systematically...spark, fuel, air, compression, timing...that's it. Make a checklist and go through it. Keep checking CEL's and you'll hear the beast come to life. Good luck! Mak

From what I gathered from him online it's cranking but it sounds like it's not getting fuel or spark. Did you get the power for the injectors from the old ones? You're not using the old resistor box, are you?

Wiring is correct on the injectors. I checked them with a multi-meter. I never had an injector resistor box.

Matt: The question SVOboy asked is probably the first one you need to give us some information on. What you said sounded like the starter turns over but the motor is not. Is that correct?

Ah...the woes and desperation has hit. Don't let it get you down Matt...it's a few simple goblins, and with a straight head, you'll chase them down and be glad you did.

First - starter turning but engine not turning...explain this please? Does it sound like it does when you hit the starter when the engine is running? Are you using an odd combination of starter and tranny?

Remember it takes fuel, spark, air, compression, and timing to have an engine run. Systematically check each one of these and you'll find your goblin.

Sorry for being vague. As I mentioned to SVOBoy and Jared last night, I'm pretty certain the engine is "cranking," or that the crankshalf is turning. I'm certain of this because I can see the engine vibrating when I start it.

You know, that initial violent vibration when the engine starts?

I also know the engine isnt' seized because I was able to manually turn the crankshaft a few days ago.

Things to check today:


Remove axle and fix seal. stupid seal.
clutch cable - make sure it's tightened all of the way
distributor - I have never actually opened it, so it's possible it's busted. Good thing I have a spare.
Spark Plugs - I still have the spark plugs from Japan in the engine. Mad JDM Spark Plugs Yo!!
Timing - I've never adjusted timing before. Ever. Hopefully that's a last resort.

From what I've read, for OBD1 you don't need the resistor box. I haven't done this swap, though, so I'd take that with a grain of salt.

One thing you can try for a quick test, is to spray some starter fluid or carb cleaner in the throttle body and try to start the car. If it cough's and spit's, then you will know you at least have spark.

When you were working on the engine, did you fool with the timing? The description you had for the motor doing a ugh, sounded like the timing might be off, also.

Timing isn't that difficult. It's mostly a issue of being methodical, in the right sequence. I don't think the clutch cable has anything to do with it not starting. The clutch switch interferes with the starter turning over and your starter is turning over, so I don't think that's the issue.

From what I've read, for OBD1 you don't need the resistor box. I haven't done this swap, though, so I'd take that with a grain of salt.

One thing you can try for a quick test, is to spray some starter fluid or carb cleaner in the throttle body and try to start the car. If it cough's and spit's, then you will know you at least have spark.

When you were working on the engine, did you fool with the timing? The description you had for the motor doing a ugh, sounded like the timing might be off, also.

You're right. no resistor box. I went straight to obd1 so i never installed one.
I guess if it's timing it could be easy to fix. I've never messed with the timing on this car, but the distributor was "loose" when I received the engine. I tightened the bolt last night, but as far as I know it's in the wrong place.

I will remove the distributor cap today to ensure that all of the internals are actually there.

Timing isn't that difficult. It's mostly a issue of being methodical, in the right sequence. I don't think the clutch cable has anything to do with it not starting. The clutch switch interferes with the starter turning over and your starter is turning over, so I don't think that's the issue.

Unless my transmission is actually in gear, which it probably is. I havn't hooked up the shift linkage yet. If the clutch cable isn't engaging the clutch then it is not going to really be able to start because it isn't in nuetral.<