Fix my car, :(

[SVOboy]

:(, http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1718485, :(

[SVOboy]

Update:

Made a test light cuz I didn't have one, the thermostat ground, starter ground, and both of the multigrounds are still good. What should I check now?

[omgwtfbyobbq]

Does the ignition stay on, or does the car just not stop? Check for shorts yet?

[SVOboy]

The car just doesn't stop. None of the grounds are shorted but I'm waiting on a DMM from my dad to check every wire individually. If it's shorted it'll read X number of ohms, correctomundo?

[Matt Timion]

The car just doesn't stop. None of the grounds are shorted but I'm waiting on a DMM from my dad to check every wire individually. If it's shorted it'll read X number of ohms, correctomundo?

if you're checking the wires with the ECU wiring, that is correct. You want it to short because that means it's connected.

I would check your distributor wiring first. THe engine turn off by grounding your coil. If it isn't turning off it might be because your dizzy wiring got mixed up.

[Gary Palmer]

SVOboy: I sent you a really nice long detailed message, which apparently got lost. Did you get your car working?

[SVOboy]

Oh ****! It must've gotten lost, how odd, lemme check my messages just to make sure. My dad just brought over his DMM, I was waiting to see what was up with you before I went out to test wires. :(:(:(

[Gary Palmer]

Ok, on the DVM, you want to use the ohm setting. Set it to the lowest number you can find. When the lead's are not touching, you should read 1___. That stand's for infinite resistance. When you connect the lead's, you should get 000, or very nearly 0, which is essentially a short cicrcuit, like a wire connection. You will need to make a long, 10-15 feet jumper wire, so that you can connect one end under the hood and one end to the black lead on the DVM. Then connect the jumper wire to the wire you are trying to check. You should be able to connect the red wire to the other end under the dash and getting a reading of 0, if it's wired correctly.

Most likely you have 2 wires which got wired incorrectly.

I'd check the black/yellow wire to the ignition coil, since it is supposed to get power from the second connection when you turn the ignition on. It has to be getting power from something else.

I'm at work, at the moment, trying to finish off some thing's before I go on vacation. That's why I gave you my phone number's, so you could call me, if you need to, after I leave work.

[SVOboy]

Yep, I'll work it up myself for a few hours and if I've still not found the dice I'll give you a call. It might be that I mixed up two black/yellows on one of the round plugs. We'll see!

[SVOboy]

Okay gares, just fired it up again, still not shutting off, but it's not solid cel, it's code 9. That seems like a dizzy code off the top of my head, checking the h-t code list now...

[SVOboy]

9 is cyp, which is cylinder position sensor or something I think. Time to check that wire out. It's the only code, so that means the problem isn't as huge as once anticipated. Need to figure out the ignition stuff. I'm going to print out my own DIY right now and check my wiring, :p

[SVOboy]

the ignition stuff looks fine, but there is the possibility I misplaced the three thick white wires in the fusebox that come off the ignition. can someone get me a picture of which goes where or perhaps just tell me? Searching h-t now...


i feel the end is near.

[Gary Palmer]

The blue/white wire should be wired to go to one side of fuse 19. The white/red wire should go to one side of fuse 17. The yellow wire shsould go to one side of fuse 18. The black/yellow should go to one side of fuse 13,14 and 1.

Most likely you have the yellow wire and the black/yellow wires switched. The yellow is ig2 and the black/yellow is ig1, but the problems you've described sound like they just got switched.

[SVOboy]

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/DSC00427.aad.JPG

That's the picture I just sent to matt. I know everything else on the fuse box is correct besides being unsure of those. It sounds like we have differently colored wires?

[SVOboy]

well, those three are correct, unfortunately.

[SVOboy]

i'll have to see about this yellow wire business. i don't think i touched it but i need to check.

[Gary Palmer]

Bunkness!

[SVOboy]

Yeah, that big *** yellow wire is completely untouched. i fixed the cyp code (nine) by switching two white wires on a round plug, bling bling.

anyway, still no luck getting the car to shut off.

what i think is odd is that the ignitor power wire doesn't get power when the car is in I, but it'll still let the car keep going even after i pull the key out!

[Gary Palmer]

Hold up a minute. Your saying that even when you take the key out of the ignition it shut's off?

[SVOboy]

what i'm saying is that even if i take the key out the engine still runs, which is what i think you meant but you misworded it.

[krousdb]

Yeah, that big *** yellow wire is completely untouched. i fixed the cyp code (nine) by switching two white wires on a round plug, bling bling.

anyway, still no luck getting the car to shut off.

what i think is odd is that the ignitor power wire doesn't get power when the car is in I, but it'll still let the car keep going even after i pull the key out!

How is your fuel pump getting power when the key is out?

[SVOboy]

don't freaking ask me, iono! it's not getting power before i start the damn engine!

this is why i'm so pissed off, :p

[Gary Palmer]

VERY good question! The ecu has to be getting power when it's not supposed to.

[SVOboy]

Well ****, I wish I didn't have such ****ing ****ty jdm sir wiring diagrams! It must be something on one of these damn ****ing circular plugs, they're the only thing I depinned and could've messed up (lots of the same color wires, that's what happened with code 9).

[Gary Palmer]

What circular plug's are you talking about?

[SVOboy]

The ones that hang out on the strut mounts. I made little mock ups of them in my wire tuck thread, you'll notice there are a lot of the same color wires, :(

Anyway, if I had a decent wiring diagram I could trace them to make sure they were going the right places, but I haven't found anything that will help.

[Matt Timion]

What circular plug's are you talking about?

plugs onthe shock tower I imagine.

I think at this point all you can do is check every wire on with your DMM.

[SVOboy]

Yeah, but the problem isn't a short, it's wires going the wrong places, which I'd need a diagram to tell me how to fix, na mean?

[Gary Palmer]

Yes, I know what you mean. From the diagram, it lookss like their are two primary, 14 wire plug's. One goe's to the ecu and the other goe's to the driver's side. Are those the two you are talking about and are they the only two?

[SVOboy]

Yes, and yes. I'd need the two going to the ecu I believe as the drive side plug has all different wires and was easily matched. I might be wrong on that though.

[krousdb]

Just unplug wires until the engine dies.

[SVOboy]

I need to have the plug unplugged to depin them.

[krousdb]

Snip, snip.

[Gary Palmer]

Passenger's Side, c101

Front of car Back of car
yel Blu
Wht/Yel Wht/Yel
Wht-3 wht-3
Grn/Wht-2 Grn/Wht-2
Red/Wht-1 Red/Wht-1
Wht/Blu Wht/Blu
Or/Blu Or/Blu
Wht-4 Wht-4
Orn Orn
Red/blu Red/blu
Yel/wht Yel/wht
Red/yel Red/Yel
Brn/blk Brn/Blk
Blk/red Blk/red

[Gary Palmer]

Ok, White 3, engine side, goes to O2 sensor. ECU side, goes to C16 on ecu.
White 4, engine side, goes to ignitor unit, on dizzy. ECU side goes to C2.

[Gary Palmer]

SVOboy: Would you do me a favor? I've been looking at the schematic and although their are similar colored wire's on both of the plug's, none of them look to me like they would allow the car to keep running, once it's started and then the ignition key is turned off and removed, but the engine keep's running.

I keep thinking about Krousedb's comment on the fuel pump, because the fuel pump relay is enabled by the ecu and the only way the ecu can keep enabling the fuel pump is if it was getting power from somewhere besides the ignition switch.

Do I understand the problem correctly?

[SVOboy]

Sorry, my dad comandeered the computer, since he's a fool.

I think you're getting it correctly. Think being the main word.

[SVOboy]

Snip snip discovered that the second wire I clipped, which was a yellow black, would turn the engine off. I'll take a picture of it here in a second, but anyway, it runs out to the harness section under the IM then I can't follow it because the IM is in the way. I'm going to wire back up the first one I cut and see if it'll work normally with just that one wire cut...wonder what it does, :p

[Gary Palmer]

Sorry, I got busy trying to sort out the schematic's.

Can you check for voltage at the yellow/black wire which goes to your injector's. You will probably need to change the DVM to measure DC volt's, which some meter's show as a flat line. Set it for 20V. Then you should be able to measure voltage. Double check it by measuring across the battery.

Presuming you get 12-13 volt's, then turn the ignition key on, but don't start the car. You should get 12 volt's across ground on the battery and the black/yellow wire to the injector's.

Then turn the key off and take it out. You should get 0 volt's. I think you are probably getting 12, even with the key off. Then let me know and we can track backward from their.

[SVOboy]

Well, I checked the injectors yesterday with my test light and they seemed fine. Anyway, picture in a second of the working solution at this time.

[Gary Palmer]

Just set it up so you can unplug the fuel relay?

[SVOboy]

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/DSC00428.97d.th.JPG (http://images5.theimagehosting.com/DSC00428.97d.JPG)

It was the yel/blk that did it. The main relay wasn't clicking off, so I assumed dan was right and I was getting constant power to it somehow. Anyway, with the blk/yel resoldered and the yel/blk left hanging it works perfectly, as far as I know.

*shrug*

[SVOboy]

Why won't the site display my picture...link:

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/DSC00428.97d.JPG

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/DSC00428.97d.JPG

[Gary Palmer]

Are you talking about at the connector to the fuel relay?

[SVOboy]

No, the round shock tower plug that you didn't give the pinouts for, it's in the picture.

[krousdb]

Snip snip discovered that the second wire I clipped, which was a yellow black, would turn the engine off. I'll take a picture of it here in a second, but anyway, it runs out to the harness section under the IM then I can't follow it because the IM is in the way. I'm going to wire back up the first one I cut and see if it'll work normally with just that one wire cut...wonder what it does, :p

Yay for snip, snip.

[krousdb]

It was the yel/blk that did it. The main relay wasn't clicking off, so I assumed dan was right and I was getting constant power to it somehow. Anyway, with the blk/yel resoldered and the yel/blk left hanging it works perfectly, as far as I know.

*shrug*
CEL is gone? Im sure that wire is for something. Check your lights and accessories and stuff to see what doesn't work.

[Gary Palmer]

The connections for the other side:

yel/wht-yel/wht
yel-yel
orn/wht2-orn/wht2
blu/yel-blu/yel
wht1-wht1
blk/yel-blk/yel
orn/orn
yel/blk2-yel/blk2
yel1-yel1
yel/blk1-yel/blk1
red1-red1
yel3-yel3

yel, no number, engine side goes to egr. ecu goes to c8
yel/blk1, engine goes to main injector. dash, goes to main relay
yel/blk2, engine goes to aux. injector, dash, goes to main relay. yel/blk1 & 2 are joined and go to the main relay.
yel1, engine goes to aux injector, ecu goes to A3
yel3, engine goess to lock up solenoid, which you should no longer need.

Hope this helps.

[SVOboy]

CEL was gone earlier, Dan, I switched two white wires on the other plug and it went away.

Also, I'm assuming the yel/blk I cut had something to do with the injectors and I just mispinned it somewhere else. When I did the obd1/mpfi I just ran both injector power wires together and into the 4 new injectors. I prolly just mispinned one of those two into the main relay somewhere and then cut it and everything's back to normal, I guess, *shrug*

i hope that's all there is to it, thanks for the help everyone, to echo matt's comment is his own thread, I've gotten more solid tech help here than ever on honda-tech, :p

[krousdb]

OK so where's the pictures of the tuck? And get to B8 ifying that B2! Then it will be the pimpness fo sheezy.:D

[SVOboy]

I'm currently taking a lot of crap from my parents about the head swap. It seems like this will prolly be a l8 night affair or just a big fight, but whatev, my dad can go to hell.

Anyway, pictures of the tuck will come later after I have it all taped up and such, not today though, need a sanity check tonight.

[Gary Palmer]

SVOboy; Sorry to hear your catching any grief. It it were me, I'd be thinking "hey, that's pretty cool he's interested and willing to try something new", but that's just me. I wouldn't be surprized if their isn't something else going on, also.

Anyway, I got to thinking about the yellow/black wire and I think if everything else is Ok, I'd just put a piece of heat shrink over the end, with a note to yourself, to leave it alone in the future.

[SVOboy]

haha, yeah, there's always something else. generally that i dislike my dad and that i've been pretty mean to my mom for no reason, thinking about picking up a full engine just to placate them and myself (head swap is teh scareness to me).

anyway, when i loomed everything up i left that wire out so i'd know what's up with it.

[lovemysan]

haha, yeah, there's always something else. generally that i dislike my dad and that i've been pretty mean to my mom for no reason, thinking about picking up a full engine just to placate them and myself (head swap is teh scareness to me).

anyway, when i loomed everything up i left that wire out so i'd know what's up with it.

You should buy them both a scangauge.

[SVOboy]

everyone in my family drives pre-96 cars. the camry mom bought new in 93, never broken down, never had an issue, nothing's ever worn out, 140k miles.

dad has a 94 geo prizm (toyota corolla) which has 190k and has had some issues but nothing major (dead ignitor).

all of cars are stick shift, also.

[lovemysan]

A friend of mine recently sold his 97 camry,160k , leather, sunroof, and 5 speed for $600. He drove it with a bad axle seal.

[SVOboy]

damn, i'm pretty sure he got ripped off, bad axle doesn't cost crap to repair, :p

my mom's car is worth enough to for the insurance company to spend 1k repairing some littles dents to both doors from where someone backed into it in a parking lot, mwahaha.

ninja edit: oh, axle seal. what'd he do, burn out the tranny?