Supermid M1 install in 88-91 crx

[88HF]

So I finally installed the Supermid mileage computer in my 88 honda crx hf. I had been getting parts together to do a cluster swap, but tried it out on the advice I had read that it may work with the original cluster... and it does! First of all the Supermid is pretty easy to install, the only thing I have left is to figure out is how to mount the unit more effectively.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
IMPORTANT LINKS:

Yoshi's Supermid M-1 information portal (http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=3953&highlight=supermid)
SVOboy's Supermid M-1 installation (http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=906&highlight=supermid)
Installation in Sean88's civic HX (http://servercage.com/wordpress/?p=118)
Supermid article (http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601080&sid=atw_4DmW_OjA&refer=asia)
Translated Japanese Supermid page with schematics (http://www.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fpriusdiy.fc2web.com%2FNEN PIKEI.html&langpair=ja%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF8)

Supermid Button Operation (http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/1883/m1menueng7of.jpg)

http://www3.telus.net/metro/superMID.jpg

__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
There are four wires to hook up. On my unit, BLACK is for ground (on most its brown), YELLOW to an injector(for most its WHITE), PURPLE to the VSS, and RED to constant 12V power. Thats pretty straight forward. My unit has 3 other wires, I don't know what they are for so I just capped them off.

__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Here is my wiring under the hood (driver's side near firewall), the only spliced wire pertinent is the blue injector signal wire, (you can use the red, light blue, yellow, or brown if you like). I used a Buchanan red tap splice for 22-18AWG wire. These are good for splices, but rather large. [The other splice connectors you see are because I accidentally cut the other injector wires when installing my injector cutoff switch.] The wire from this splice goes to the white/ or in my case yellow wire from the supermid.
http://www.gassavers.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=710&stc=1&d=1184433747
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________

Here is where I tapped into the fusebox for the 12V constant (RED wire), through the interior lighting fuse(always on). I put the wire on the side of the fuse that gets power through the fuse, not before it. That way there won't be a fire if the other end of the wire shorts to ground... keep the other end capped off during this so you don't shock yourself.
http://www.gassavers.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=711&stc=1&d=1184433902
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________

The final two wires I connected to the cluster because I was using single pair thermostat wire and it was easy to run them to the same place. To take out the cluster, you must remove 8 screws total. Use a short flat screwdriver to remove the plastic covers behind the cluster on the dash. Use a short phillips screwdriver to remove the screws beneath these covers.
http://www.gassavers.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=714&stc=1&d=1184435253
http://www.gassavers.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=715&d=1184435325
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________

Remove the two phillips screws at either side under the cluster.
http://www.gassavers.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=716&d=1184435332
http://www.gassavers.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=717&d=1184435339
http://www.gassavers.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=718&d=1184435346
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________

Before pulling off the cluster hood, you must disconnect the instrument lighting adjustment switch, and rear defroster switch by slipping your hand under and pushing them forward and out, the short flat-tip screwdriver may help to remove the connectors.
http://www.gassavers.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=719&d=1184435353
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________

There are 4 screws remaining holding the cluster onto a metal bracket once the hood is removed. Before pulling on the cluster, remember to undo all the connectors behind the cluster!!!

The red wire connected on the back of the cluster goes to the VSS purple wire. The white wire on the back of the cluster is for ground (brown or in my case black wire) This is for 88-89 model:
http://www.gassavers.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=712&stc=1&d=1184434564

cluster for 90-91 model:
http://www.gassavers.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=713&stc=1&d=1184434577
(for the 90-91 model the VSS signal is where the green wire attaches on the left of this picture. The box at the middle of the unit may not be present on non-hf models because this is the fuel efficiency shift indicator light. The ground wire can be hooked up to the screw right to the left of that or right above it.)

[88HF]

.

[88HF]

..

[88HF]

http://www.gassavers.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=722&stc=1&d=1184447294

[UfoTofU]

Beauty!

Gives me some inspiration / motivation to hook up my VSS. Sure beats swapping the whole cluster though the Integra cluster would look nice.

[88HF]

I agree its a lot easier, esp. if I can't get the old VSS out. I plan to try though as long as I can get my hands on some connectors.

[88HF]

72.32mpg for 9.87mi
http://www.gassavers.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=723&stc=1&d=1184484518

[UfoTofU]

My 88 CRX is DPFI....

Would I have to swap over to an MPFI setup before attempting the SuperMID install?

[88HF]

I think you would, I think I've read its not that difficult of a conversion.

[popimp]

Dan:

You're a true electrical pimp. Keep up the good work.

[Bunger]

From what I have read, the M1 isn't setup to work with a 2 injector TBI system (which is what the DPFI pretty much is). So you would need to convert to MPFI, which can be done by swapping distributor, ECU, and intake manifold + tb, and some wiring. I've done a number of these conversions myself, but if you don't at least feel comfortable doing things like changing your oil or installing a car radio, I wouldn't suggest you attempt this conversion.

The write up above is good, but I should add that all the connections you needed were right at the ECU: constant power, ground, VSS and an injector.

[McPatrick]

hey Daniel,

So it looks like installing a Super MID should be fairly straightforward on a 1991 CRX HF then as well? I don't know much about electronics at all, so I would pretty much just be following your DIY.

Also, do you feel being able to watch your FE all the time improves your FE?

[guest001]

where can you buy this??
sorry....

nevermind, I found it.

[FritzR]

Installed mine today in '88 CRX HF CA model. T tap connectors Pin A1 at ECU Brown (white connector top front wire brown on mine some are different color) for injector signal. Pin B16 (red/yellow on middle black connector) for speed sensor. Red to radio hot. GND to ground