Pic of steering

[Compaq888]

Is this the rack end bushing???

I have a line in red pointing to it.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d25/Compaq888/SAVE0000.jpg

[MetroMPG]

looks like the outer tie-rod to me. the arrow points to the tie-rod boot.

[JanGeo]

The rack end bushing is at the other end of that linkage supporting the end of the rack as it comes out of the rack tube. It should be under a long ribbed boot and have a joint on it like that one on the other end of the connecting rod you are pointing to.

[Compaq888]

oh, thanks, because I think it needs to be replaced. I get heavy vibrations in the steering when I try to do some hard braking or even regular braking. My discs aren't warmed and my calipers are good and my pads are good.

[JanGeo]

Jack up your front end and check for play in the wheels / steering - try to turn them left right with the other on the ground, also spin them and see if your tires are getting out of round - if they are you have disk problems with uneven drag making flat spots. If you jack up on wheel at a time you can check for play in each wheel. Also try braking in a turn and see if it is different turning left or right. Are you sure it is not the ABS kicking in? Last try lowering your tire pressure to normal pressure and try the brakes again.

[rh77]

Bushings should last longer than 5-6 years, especially in SoCal. One question, how do you know it's not the rotors? I have chronic rotor problems on the TL -- I just had them turned to grind-out the high spots about 20K miles ago, and now their pulsing again. I don't know if there's enough left to grind down this next time, but with ABS, warped rotors signifcantly increase stopping distance, so it's not something to ignore. All 4 rotors probably should be replaced on mine.

Next (it's a long-shot), but the brake pads might be wearing in a wedge pattern, or are sliding back and forth within the caliper frame. Factory stock vehicles have one plunger to push the pad against the rotor, and can sometimes get off-center and wear funny (Brembos and lots of aftermarket brake systems have 2 plunger pots to even out the pressure) Lastly, if you have drum brakes in the rear, the shoes might need replacement or adjustment. Additionally, the drum itself can warp, creating the same pulsating within the brake pressure system (more rare).

RH77

[Compaq888]

I don't have ABS. The dealer checked the whole brake system they couldn't find anything wrong. The pulsating and vibrations are felt in the steering so I think it's mostly the front.

[JanGeo]

yup spin them and check for an uneven drag also if it is the rotors it will pulse like crazy at high speed and really slow at low speeds. If it is the suspension it will pulse at the same rate if going fast or slow. If you can stick your head out the window and see the wheel when you brake you may see what is going on. Just don't side swipe any mail boxes or wire poles with your head or your passengers. It could be any joint in the suspension including the ball joints or struts including the tops - look for red dust also. Sometimes you will not feel the play with it jacked up so park one tire on sand and try wiggling the wheel. Also check for any clunking or play when turning the steering wheel side to side when stopped especially at the ends of travel left and right. You should see the rim moving and the side wall flex with the slightest of steering wheel movement. Last power steering problem? Brake with the engine off.

[Matt Timion]

I had this exact same problem on my 2001 Nissan Sentra. I think it's something wrong with Nissan personally. I only experienced it when I was going downhill and braking. I was usually going above 65mph when I did this.

I could not duplicate it on flat land. When I took it into the shop they also couldn't duplicate it because there were no hills within 20 miles of the shop. I decided to just forget it because I rarely went downhill anyway.

I also had the rotors checked, as well as the brake pads by the dealer. It also has this problem where the gear shifter would rattle. This went away after my 30,000 check up, but then started again about 400 miles later. it was so damn annoying.

As luck would have it, someone rear ended me on the I-15 going 60+mph. The estimate to fix it was $4000 and I owned $4000 on the car. I took the money, paid it off, and then sold it to a guy for $1600.

So Compaq, if you're lucky, you can get rear-ended and this whole mess will be over :)

[DaX]

Compaq -

I had the same shuddering problem but worse. Check that the bolts that hold your steering rack to the frame are tight - mine were completely missing when I first bought the car, and I was having serious steering issues including vibrations, loud knocking noise, horrible steering response, etc.

[JanGeo]

This could be why your mileage is so low . . . check the alignment of the toe in on the front wheels and the rear for that matter. Get a plastic straw or a laser and mount it on a board to rest on the front and back edges of the rim and site the line to some distant object and see if the front tires intersect at about 500 to 1000 feet indicating a degree or so of toe in - if they toe out then that would be the problem. My rear wheels were out of alignment from the factory a lot and wore the tires bad on my Geo.

[Compaq888]

An alignment was done not too long ago. There is just too many problems with the damn car. The pulsating gets worse as speeds go up and yes the car comes to a complete stop really weird like it's dragging and letting go off the brakes at the same time.

And the damn transmission is loose. It has to rev higher before it shifts. Before it shifted at like 1500-1600, now it shifts 1700-2000.

[MetroMPG]

sounds like classic rotor warp to me.

my accord was very bad that way; i had to have them machined at least once a year.

my driving style also contributes greatly to ongoing rotor problems: i tend to brake very little, or very gently, with the result that normal corrosion on the rotors doesn't get scrubbed off as well as it would by a "normal" driver.

[JanGeo]

Yeah my Geo had all rust on the rotor - I had to grind it off with a dremel tool while running the motor in gear with the wheel off the ground - no metal showing only rust. That was 2 weeks before the chassis let go - looked at the rust in the frame but didn't think it could possibly rust out like it did.

Yup sounds like you need to take a grinder to the rotor like I did but use a bigger one than a dremel tool. My brakes worked great after I ground off the rust - ripped the a-arm right off the chassis!! HA! If you can find a shop that grinds rotors right on the car that would be best so that it eliminates the chance that is not held properly when turned.

[SVOboy]

I dunno about everyone else, but rotors for my car are only 12 bucks at autozone. I need to pick up a set since I'm developing uneven deposits also.

[Compaq888]

I really don't want to spend anymore money on it. It's nothing but a money pit. Last year I had to buy new tires because a dog jumped in front of the car and I braked and flat spotted my tires. Also gas is freaking expensive. I sometimes find myself spending $120-175 a month on gas.

Matt had a great suggestion, just wreck it.