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Old 08-23-2006, 05:10 PM   #1
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Some ridic article by some fool

http://crxmpg.com/feclaims1.html

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Old 08-23-2006, 06:16 PM   #2
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i've read this....

I read it...and I just lost all hope when he wanted to wrap foil around his o2 sensor.
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:22 PM   #3
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This is the annotated version though,
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:27 PM   #4
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oh....

I read his personal site. Him and his crazy dodge neon.
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:31 PM   #5
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Wordpress! Wordpress!
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Old 08-23-2006, 07:20 PM   #6
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Everybody has their "quirks" as it were.

I bought some Torco diesel oil...it's OK...but I found it's not rated all that well overall. Saw no mpg gain in either car. For what I paid I could have bought Mobil synth oil at Walfart.

I don't take everything LaPointe says as gospel...but if I was looking for something to test for mpg gains...I'd look on his site before I'd look on some others.

I've got foil wrapped around my O2 sensor. Want to see?

I'm not sure what the endless need is to put stuff down on this site....hope it isn't catching though.
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Old 08-23-2006, 08:38 PM   #7
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*sigh* Twas me, I think it's pretty crappy, I'll clean it up one of these days.
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:49 AM   #8
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Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you!
Specifically, the complete lack of VO powered microcars is what makes me think oil companies and automakers are a bit too close.
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:51 AM   #9
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WTF is wordpress!
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Old 08-24-2006, 02:07 AM   #10
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Wordpress!
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Old 08-24-2006, 05:46 AM   #11
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Bottom line on LaPointe (as far as I know) is that he tests 99% driveline mods for fuel economy.

NO driving techniques...NO aero mods.

He drives out one way so many miles..then back the other way to factor out wind and terrain. Uses a scan gauge. Highway speeds.

If he says he's seen a gain with something...better believe it...espec if you drive a Neon. Well...maybe not the Torco oil?

As far as advertising stuff: I find it interesting on the internet the way people tend to jump all over anyone selling something....yes there are a lot of scammers...but then again....people can't just give stuff away either.

If you try to make your own versions of various things you see mentioned...you'll probably find what I did...all the little parts add up quick...and you will probably spend many frustrating hours trying to get something to work.

As far as his political views...my guess is that if the acetone was added to fuel in bulk...there MIGHT be around a 10% avg gain in fuel economy...cleaner air. But no war profits though.
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Old 08-24-2006, 03:05 PM   #12
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I still dunno what you want me to do with wordpress, *shrug*

ZugyNA, I have a hard time believing buying a certain brand of gas destroyed his GMC's fuel system. He says he saw that, but I'll be damned if I believe it. Also, I've run E10 in my car plenty of times and it has yet to jump and buck, or whatever he says it does.

And to point about selling things, the fact that all he says about most of these things is "wow, they're so cool, call my buddy and he'll hook you up" is suspect. Let's not even consider that the product websites have little merit or proof, but if GS existed for the soul purpose of Matt answering ever post with a product he makes...I wouldn't be here.

Besides that, since you bring it up, it is rather odd he completely disregards aero and driving mods. He claims doubled mileage, but I've never seen it happen (except in the case of driving and aero mods, as shown on this site).
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Old 08-24-2006, 05:45 PM   #13
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As far as selling/buying products goes...well it's buyer beware.

I really try to look before I leap...and even that doesn't always work.

I only recently started paying much attention to driving style and aero mods.

Driving style changes work for sure...but in a sense are almost a kind of cheating...which confuses results from technical changes.....and probably why LaPointe doesn't use them.

Aero mods work...but can be hard to apply right? Not to mention changing the appearance of the car.

People on some other sites and in some groups pay no attention to either of them at all for the most part...doing mostly driveline mods.

The majority of auto enthusiasts are still after POWER....PERIOD?????
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Old 08-24-2006, 06:04 PM   #14
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Yes, yes, buyer beware, trust no one, it's all your fault someone lied to you and you bought their crap.

Anyway, how is driving technique cheating? Because it works, or because it blows all this heated fuel stuff out of the water?

Besides, this isn't about what the majority of people want. Change in attitudes won't happen if every fuel economy improvement is pitched with some bs about "and there was a huge increase in horsepower too." I haven't seen a dyno sheet on his site, nor any testing besides "oh wow, he feathered that gas pedal a little bit and tripled his mileage, but then he put ethanol in and threw a rod."

Unfortunately, it doesn't make sense. And unfortunately it doesn't have any of the proof behind it to make me think it does. If he'd cite a mother****ing source besides www.buythiscuzitworks.com I might be a little less of a cynic.
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Old 08-24-2006, 06:34 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZugyNA
Driving style changes work for sure...but in a sense are almost a kind of cheating...which confuses results from technical changes.....and probably why LaPointe doesn't use them.
I look at it the other way. Once you max out your driving style you won't see anymore improvement and so you can't cheat by doing something that will get better results.
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Old 08-25-2006, 06:09 AM   #16
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It would be LOGICAL to combine driving techniques...aeromods...AND driveline mods?

But you can't test driveline mods if you are using driving techniques at the same time...or at least it's difficult. Same for testing aeromods.

It's real easy to put some acetone in the tank or install an intake swirler or vgs...and then subconsiously drive a little easier and then say they worked.

Which is why testing things with a scangauge ...2 ways..at highway speeds...is the about the only valid way to test driveline mods?

(or maybe full tank refills with consistant driving and using a 3 tank moving avg?)
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Old 08-25-2006, 08:09 AM   #17
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Isn't this the guy who also says to add the oil additives in addition to the recommended volume of oil, overfilling your crankcase? What a screwball!
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Old 08-25-2006, 08:12 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZugyNA
Which is why testing things with a scangauge ...2 ways..at highway speeds...is the about the only valid way to test driveline mods
IMHO, it's the only valid way to test any kind of mod, additive, etc. - and only if cruise control is used (takes the driver's foot out of the equation and ensures each run is at exactly the same speed), and only if you're driving essentially alone (not following in any other vehicles' wakes). It's the closest we can get to a dynamometer.

EDIT: and I should have said, accurate-as-possible before/after comparisons can only be done back to back, in identical conditions. Not days or weeks apart (as is the case with tank to tank testing).
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Old 08-25-2006, 09:29 AM   #19
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How often do I do a scientific test on a modification? Mehbe once a month, less? Should I abandon good FE for that period of time because it'll be better for testing? Unfortunately, I think there is just as much variability in normal driving as there is in fuel conscious driving. If you want to get ****ty mileage so you can "accurately" test your fuel atomizers, that's fine with me, but I have yet to see you post some semblance of a test that's even made an attempt to be free of variability, so I can't say I see what you're gaining.
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:32 AM   #20
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Howdy all...
The statement at --
?11. Perhaps you still have a carburetor or you own a beautiful antique automobile. I often soldered or plugged the power value shut in many kinds of carburetors to prevent enriching the fuel mixture unnecessarily. ---You will not even notice anything except smoother operation and a lower gas expense with improved mileage.? --is WAY WRONG !

Plugging or disonecting someway the power valve circuit in a carby will result in a stammer (which if serious enough could stall out the engine) when flooring it from idle.
Not the best thing at the lights or across a busy intersection when you need immediate zip.
Other effects can be burnt head valves from lean out conditions or increased seat wear.
Also the engine will be noticeably weak in acceleration when going say from a 3/4 to full throttle condition in any gear.
Bottom line , BAD ADVICE !

In fact ,..that whole article was a complete joke.

gregW:-)

100hp Fiat 128 1100cc 40mpg
std-hp 72 Toyota corola 60mpg
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:09 PM   #21
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Hey there, onegammyleg! Thanks for the input, it's nice to have you around as a new member. Don't forget to make an intro thread!
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Old 08-26-2006, 06:35 AM   #22
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I've noticed many, many times that when a mod is proposed that someone...with out fail....will introduce the FEAR FACTOR or the RIDICULE FACTOR.

Not saying that taking care and so forth are not a good thing...just making an observation.....

Ridicule and fear are NOT scientific testing methods.

They are emotional games?
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Old 08-26-2006, 07:16 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onegammyleg
Howdy all...
The statement at --
¨11. Perhaps you still have a carburetor or you own a beautiful antique automobile. I often soldered or plugged the power value shut in many kinds of carburetors to prevent enriching the fuel mixture unnecessarily. ---You will not even notice anything except smoother operation and a lower gas expense with improved mileage.¨ --is WAY WRONG !

Plugging or disonecting someway the power valve circuit in a carby will result in a stammer (which if serious enough could stall out the engine) when flooring it from idle.
Not the best thing at the lights or across a busy intersection when you need immediate zip.
Other effects can be burnt head valves from lean out conditions or increased seat wear.
Also the engine will be noticeably weak in acceleration when going say from a 3/4 to full throttle condition in any gear.
Bottom line , BAD ADVICE !

In fact ,..that whole article was a complete joke.

gregW:-)

100hp Fiat 128 1100cc 40mpg
std-hp 72 Toyota corola 60mpg
Here's one for ya. I bought a 650 demon carb for 351c. The guy said it had a good base jet setting. I ran full throtle with water injection on. Engine ran very well. I turned water off. It was crackleing out the exhuast. I did research on the carb. It was 15.5 AFR out of the box. But why water dosn't burn?
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Old 08-26-2006, 10:41 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZugyNA
I've noticed many, many times that when a mod is proposed that someone...with out fail....will introduce the FEAR FACTOR or the RIDICULE FACTOR.

Not saying that taking care and so forth are not a good thing...just making an observation.....

Ridicule and fear are NOT scientific testing methods.

They are emotional games?
Emotional games: "The government and every business in the world is in a conspiracy to rule your life so you can pay 500 extra dollars a year for gas. No one is honest except for me. Everyone wants to poison your gas tank. Now, listen to me solve the problem."

Logic: If acetone improves vaporization of fuel, and fuel is almost already completed vaporated by a stock injector, then where's the gain going to come from? Mehbe I'm just scared, but I tried it on two seperate occasions with two different fuel injection systems on my car; you can guess what happened.
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Old 12-04-2006, 10:13 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZugyNA
Bottom line on LaPointe (as far as I know) is that he tests 99% driveline mods for fuel economy.

As far as his political views...my guess is that if the acetone was added to fuel in bulk...there MIGHT be around a 10% avg gain in fuel economy...cleaner air. But no war profits though.
Ten percent gain? That's a lot! A whole lot!
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Old 12-04-2006, 10:25 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by maxc
But why water dosn't burn?
No, water doesn't burn.... It reacts, chemically! This feature of water makes it unique;ie, rusting (iron oxide) forms when water...in any form / amount ...combines chemically with iron-based metals. Want a faster rusting? Heat the iron! Weld beads rust very fast...from the moisture in the air. Liquid water is as different from water vapor(a gas) as liquid is different from ice! It's all water...just the states are different!
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Old 12-04-2006, 10:35 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by MetroMPG
IMHO, it's the only valid way to test any kind of mod, additive, etc. - and only if cruise control is used (takes the driver's foot out of the equation .... It's the closest we can get to a dynamometer.
Ahem! Take the driver's foot out of the equation? My foot (on the accelerator) can beat your blind, brainless cruise control any day, any time, under any conditions! I promise you! Cruise control has no eyes, judgement, or sense of smoothness (it's "on", "off", "on", "off" ... just what you don't want! No modulation...no gradients!
The closest thing we can get to a (chassis) dyno? I'm afraid not!
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Old 12-04-2006, 10:49 AM   #28
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Ted, you missed my main point:

Quote:
it's the only valid way to test any kind of mod
I'm not arguing that cruise is most efficient. I'm saying that it's most consistent, and it also removes operator bias from testing.

Like you, I can also beat my cruise control hands down at FE. But I can't be as consistent as it is for testing purposes, and I doubt you could either.
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Old 02-20-2007, 07:06 PM   #29
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Not to be a jerk, but I disagree a bit w/ onegammeyleg. I have done alot of carb tuning on my '68 Charger. My Charger has a high lift, long duration camshaft (.509 lift on intake and exhaust w/ 292 duration) which causes a low intake manifold vaccum manifold condition. I was having problems with the 383 stalling a bit at takeoff due to too much fuel. Demon (similar to Holley) recommended a plug for the power valve because of my low vacuum (4 in of Hg). It worked for me b/c of my engine combo. I also assume that a plug wouldn't hurt or help a factory motor if the person was driving with FE in mind.

I agree the article is completely wack 'n all, but lets not jump to extremes concerning carb tuning techniques. There's alot to it.

By the way, the Charger is a rarely driven toy...the Civic gets the daily driving and the FE.
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:02 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onegammyleg View Post
Howdy all...
The statement at --
?11. Perhaps you still have a carburetor or you own a beautiful antique automobile. I often soldered or plugged the power value shut in many kinds of carburetors to prevent enriching the fuel mixture unnecessarily. ---You will not even notice anything except smoother operation and a lower gas expense with improved mileage.? --is WAY WRONG !

Plugging or disonecting someway the power valve circuit in a carby will result in a stammer (which if serious enough could stall out the engine) when flooring it from idle.
Not the best thing at the lights or across a busy intersection when you need immediate zip.
Other effects can be burnt head valves from lean out conditions or increased seat wear.
Also the engine will be noticeably weak in acceleration when going say from a 3/4 to full throttle condition in any gear.
Bottom line , BAD ADVICE !

In fact ,..that whole article was a complete joke.

gregW:-)

100hp Fiat 128 1100cc 40mpg
std-hp 72 Toyota corola 60mpg
Plugging the power valve(s) in my 780 Holley really improves the performance! I do NOT know where you are coming from! Do you? Power valves are for economy...taking the "load" from the main jets at cruise... especially if the jets are "sized" (leaned) for this compromise! Proper A/F ratio with power valves is impossible! "Burned valves"? On what planet?
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