This is my first Warm Air Intake

After many research from internet,books, and consultation with an expert, I decided to start build my own warm air intake on 20th January 2008 on my Isuzu Panther with 2,5 L Diesel Engine. First,I still want to use stock air filter box to get fresh air from outside the engine bay and maybe this make less efficiency but I remember there is also less dense if I get the warm air from engine bay. I need "Warmed Oxygen" to make a complete combustion and not warm air only. So, I bought some new 2,5" stainless steel pipe ( as I know stainless steel pipe is good in heat resistance ) and get started.
To connect the U pipe with the filter air box I used a cutted rubber hose from Honda CRV and to intake manifold, I used rubber hose from Toyota Kijang / Unser complete with Ballon ( I don't know what the factory's name ).
Combine with fuel filter Donaldson J86-20080, now I get 20% more efficiency on my car. This is sounds nice,isn't it?

Next step, I'm still working on research to mix an SVO with acetone and I really hope for many suggestion, critics and source from you.
Btw, Thanks

Attached Images

	WAI_012.jpg (56.9 KB, 140 views)
	WAI_01 EK2.jpg (53.8 KB, 113 views)
	FF_012.jpg (51.7 KB, 105 views)

Nice looking setup, panther. I can't tell from the pictures - where is your SS tubing picking up the heat? From the coolant, or the exhaust, or...? Do you have before and after intake air temps?

__________________
Roll on,
S2man

http://www.gassavers.org/gaslog/sig.php?id=519

the ballon (or balloon in english) is actually a type of helmholtz resonator and only serves to lower intake noise...the hiss of air going into the engine.

If you look at the pic, the pipe U bend is directly behind the radiator above the fan. it uses heat removed from the coolant to warm the charge.

__________________
-Russell
1991 Toyota Pickup 22R-E 2.4 I4/5 speed
1990 Toyota Cressida 7M-GE 3.0 I6/5-speed manual
mechanic, carpenter, stagehand, rigger, and know-it-all smartass
"You don't get to judge me for how I fix what you break"

The SS tubing picking up the heat from the coolant and whole engine bay. I didn't make any measurement for the temp yet but I think this the best way for tropic climate in my place. 20 minutes on the road, the temperature of the SS tubing is enough to warmed the air. Actually, we know that too hot air means less power. Until now, I'm really satisfied for the results but I also need advices from all of you to make it better.

Attached Images

System.jpg (65.2 KB, 58 views)

In your opinion, which is better if I still use the Balloon or not? I'm still really confused about the effect on the intake system.

Thanks

I understand how WAI helps gas engines. WAI reduces throttling losses. But diesels have no throttles. How does WAI help a diesel?

It's Simple. Diesel is a compressed combustion engine. Hotter the air enter the engine, better combustion we will get and better combustion produce better power and torque. So,about the fuel saving, I have a question for you, when you drive a car,what will you do if you feel there is no enough power and torque to get the speed you want?

Colder air leans out the A/F ratio in a diesel. Lean combustion improves FE because combustion is more complete. Warm air in a diesel will richen the mixture and hurt FE.

I already have more power than I need. Almost every modern car has far more power than it needs to get the job done.

More perfect the combustion,more the power you get and less you press the gas pedal, less you press the gas pedal means less fuel injected to the engine and it's means Fuel Efficiency

I know the theory is like that, but if you need efficiency than "circuit performance", I think this is the best way to increase efficiency on all vehicle include modern engine. How many people drive with over from 3500rpm on the street everyday? I'm sure there is no one do that on busy traffic like Jakarta and many big cities. And on this kind of traffic we lost many fuel which didn't burnt completely and become wasted power when you trapped on traffic jam.

On Your opinion, are there any negative effects on this WAI system as you said that this system hurt FE on diesel engine?

Thanks for your quote

If you are looking for more stuff to put in your diesel, I suggest reading on turpentine here

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/foru...m/f/9751014871

I know with a TDI if you increase the intake temp the ECU will retard the timing to account for the warmer air and thus reduce you mileage. Unless you can trick the ECU in to thinking it is still cold this would be a problem with a TDI. Unless maybe you advance the timing manually to account for the heating?

My 4JA1 Diesel engine is Naturally Aspirated engine without ECU so I have no idea how to set the timing on TDI engine. Maybe anyone know to help us on this? Thanks

webasto warms up the air before you start the car.. check it out in google..

Odd, the only one I have seen was just in line with the coolant, nothing in line with the air intake on a TDI anyway. It is about the size of a can of soda, but about 1.5 times as long.

are you saying that warm air causes a rich mix?? I find In the summer my cummins is more powerful and less a pig on diesel.

I thought Helmholtz resonance was only used after the throttle plate?

I can see the similarity to the original Helmholtz chamber though. How does it reduce noise? For example, simply blowing out air makes little noise. Blowing across the mouth of a bottle causes a whistle.

Also, what impact do these types of intake resonators (I them on my Camrys) have on FE? If one were willing to live with louder intakes, could one save gas?

Hold up, some of those resonators are worth torque, the principle is to get a sort of sonic charging effect by managing pressure waves. If it's in front of the TB it's probably a silencer, if it's after the TB, it's probably useful. On 2nd gen escort GTs, there's one that's been dyno tested to be worth about 5-10 ft/lb below 3000 rpm, that's a leaver-inner, but on the regular escort 1.9, there's one in the airbox that's just a "silencer" and that's been dynoed as being worth 2-3HP across the rev range for removal, that's a taker-outer.

In general, the more volume in the intake tract after the TB and in the case of a diesel, I guess it's everything after the air filter, the better the low end torque is. Thinking of trying to design a resonator for Marvin that works at about 2500 rpm. Not so easy to figure for 6 cyl though as for 4 or 8.

__________________
I remember The RoadWarrior..To understand who he was, you have to go back to another time..the world was powered by the black fuel & the desert sprouted great cities..Gone now, swept away..two mighty warrior tribes went to war & touched off a blaze which engulfed them all. Without fuel, they were nothing..thundering machines sputtered & stopped..Only those mobile enough to scavenge, brutal enough to pillage would survive. The gangs took over the highways, ready to wage war for a tank of juice

Warm air in a diesel allows ignition to occur earlier with less air density. Most diesels have no throttle restriction and rely on the volume of fuel injected to control power output (not the case in earlier times Mercedes changed over in 1982 I think). Warm air contributes to better fuel atomization as well as providing the same compression pressure with less air and fuel combined.

Air density at 200 degrees F is 75% of density at 32 F (close to the same as 0 and 100 C).

The engine will not produce the same maximum power as it would with cold air intake, but under all circumstances it will burn less fuel for the same cruising speed, because less fuel and air will be necessary for the same effective compression. In essence you have higher effective compression with less air and fuel, so the 20% inprovement makes perfect sense to me.

Most diesel injection pumps are thermally compensated, but of course the older ones may not be that way. In that case if you go wide open throttle the mixture would be too rich, if the intake air was high.

Everyone knows diesels dont like cold air, obviously they should love hot air.

Remember we are not talking about gobs of power and a cloud of black smoke.

regards
gary

Yeah, I know about the variable intake stuff, it can increase torque at lower RPMs while sacrificing less top end. Feel free to read the wikipedia article on Helmholtz resonance, I have been researching it for a while now.

But I never knew that Helmholtz resonance was used before the TB, since I thought Helmholtz resonance creates noise, whereas the resonance chambers before the TB are used to quiet the inrushing air (at least as far as I know).

In other news, I just noticed that the pre-TB resonator in my V6 camry is exactly opposite the breather tube for the PCV system....makes sense!

Oh yeah and in my V6, the way the variable intake system works is that in normal use, there is a divider between where the ports/runners for each bank branch out of the airbox. At ~4500 RPM, a butterfly valve in the divider opens, effectively making one big airbox. Maybe that will spark an idea for yours?

I know on the VW TDI diesel's as the air intake warms up the engine retards the timing to keep emissions as clean as they can be. This causes reduced mpg's. Some fanatic TDI'ers are putting a resistor in line with the temperature sensor to trick the ECU to think it is 20-30 degrees colder then it is all the time, keeping their timing more advance, and increasing their overall mpg's.

very intelligent thinking!!!

Air-to-fuel ratio is meaningless in a diesel because the combustion event occurs only on the vapor film on the surface of the droplets. The vapor pressure of No.2 middle distilate is so low taht away fromthe droplet surface you have no fuel or combustion.

Warm intake air will be less dense and take less power to compress, hence a gain in net power output for the fuel used...if you can get her started.

__________________
2000 Ford F-350 Super Cab Pickup
4x2, 6 speed manual
Regeared to 3.08:1
4 inch suspension slam
Aero mods: "Fastback" fairing and rugged air dam and side skirts
Stock MPG: 19
Summer MPG: 27.0
Winter MPG: 24

I need some convincing reading on the wai ideas. As far as i know from studying the subject, but by know means an exspert...higher ect reading to pcm=lean out condition,higher iat temp. reading to pcm=lean out condition, less maf flow to pcm=leanout condition. Then theres tweeking the voltage from the o-2 sensor on some none diesels, afr sensor on newer toys.,vibe,matrix,corolla... afr tuning is where I'm at with wifes vibe. A5kohm variable resistor in paralel w/iat will give you adjustment to get the higher air temp. reading to the pcm, but allows for tweeking if timing is retarded to much. I'm sorry guys cool air intake is better, but i do agree tricking the iat into telling the pcm that the air is warm will cause a lean out condition. Can you show me some convincing reading otherwise? If your interested in sensor tuning... http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/doc/TuningForMileage.html
rick
My 446ci diesel loves cool air {not cold} w/aem dryflow air filter its better than the k&n oiler i use to have, high flow dual3" exhuast.