Radiator blocking drawback

[KARR]

Greetings!

Recently, I have blocked the radiator, totally, as the following pictures will tell. I used several pieces of cardboard.






The impact on fuel consumption was very positive, altought my last tank averaged less then the one preceding it. The explanation for that fact is that I didn't fill the last tank till the top, choosing to stop filling when listening the first "click" of the needle. Water temperature rose from 176 F to 196 F, keeping a steady value of 196 F when driving on flat ground and rising to 199 F when going up, quickly returning to 196 F after the climb. One problem arises due to the increase in temperature: I noticed that water pressure is too high, resulting in a constant leak in the point where one of the rubber tubes connects to the coolant tank. No matter how hard I tight the thing I haven't found translation for (pictured below) water just keeps leaking.



When too much water is gone the temperature of the remaining water rises close to 210 F, which I believe it is not nice. I would like to hear from you, what do you suggestt I should do? Is 196 F too much for the engine? Are there any risks?

I'm also thinking of installing an oil temperature gauge to keep a better control of the engine temperature.

Thanks for you attention.

[JanGeo]

That is a "Hose Clamp" - remove the hose and clean inside and put the hose and hose clamp on again.

Make a small opening in the radiator to allow SOME cooling air to flow through the radiator - near the fan. Keep the coolent level full or you may boil over and damage the engine.

[KARR]

Originally Posted by JanGeo

That is a "Hose Clamp" - remove the hose and clean inside and put the hose and hose clamp on again.

Make a small opening in the radiator to allow SOME cooling air to flow through the radiator - near the fan. Keep the coolent level full or you may boil over and damage the engine.

Thanks for your suggestion and for the translation as well.

Can you specify the point/place where the opening should be made?

[JanGeo]

The opening should be in front of the radiator fan so when the fan turns on it will cool the radiator. Usually in the center of the radiator.

[imzjustplayin]

196f is well within range. you need to fix your cooling system if it cant cope with a paltry 196F. My non grill blocked volvo s60 that I drive has seen temps of around 210F and corvettes I believe run at 230F, so that 196F really isn't that high. If your radiator is leaking, you need to fix the leak, period.

[bobc455]

Yeah, 196 (or 199) should be no problem at all for your cooling system. That is a totally normal temperature. Sounds like you might have a worn out hose, or possibly a few.

-BC

[markweatherill]

Perhaps a new radiator cap is called for. I can't view those pictures so I may be completely wrong! But if the symptom is a leak at the expansion tank, it may be that.

[Jay2TheRescue]

Another thing to look for, is this may be the first sign of a failing head gasket. I'd start the car cold with the radiator cap off, and see if you can spot bubbles coming up through the coolant which could be a sign that you're getting exhaust gasses into the cooling system. In any event a tube of quality radiator stop leak (I recommend the powdered aluminum kind) would not hurt.

[VetteOwner]

Originally Posted by Jay2TheRescue

Another thing to look for, is this may be the first sign of a failing head gasket. I'd start the car cold with the radiator cap off, and see if you can spot bubbles coming up through the coolant which could be a sign that you're getting exhaust gasses into the cooling system. In any event a tube of quality radiator stop leak (I recommend the powdered aluminum kind) would not hurt.

ive used that BAR-S kind before (2 part then mix as you pour) didnt clog the radiator and fixed the freeze plug leak

but it cant hurt to replace the hoses, thier like $6-7 a piece (upper and lower)

[KARR]

Here some pictures of the cooling system:

This is how the inside of the hose looked like, I cutted the edge because I thought water was passing through small openings in the rubber. I believe it was not the case...


























And, whether the engine is cold or hot, the coolant tank will always look like this:

Make a small opening in the radiator to allow SOME cooling air to flow through the radiator - near the fan. Keep the coolent level full or you may boil over and damage the engine.

The opening should be in front of the radiator fan so when the fan turns on it will cool the radiator. Usually in the center of the radiator.

JanGeo, are any of the yellow spots a right place to make that opening?




Give your suggestions please.

Thanks once again.

[philip1]

OK you are getting close but what they all were suggesting is to cut a hole in the plastic you used to block the radiator not cut the radiator itself. My advice is this. Stand in front of the car with the bonnet open find what ever side has the fan on the back of the radiator. remove some of the grille block on that side. drive happy.

[spotaneagle]

my theory is that some part of your radiator needs to be unblock to insure proper cooling, having your pipes burst due to pressure is a bad thing(your hot enough to be in blown head/ block territory , first replace the hose, second keep at least a 1/4 of the radiator unblocked, unless you want to crack your head

on my car at prime with wai i had only 2/3 covered 1/3 was exposed and with the wai i only noticed a slight increase in temp increase speed. the velocity at which the tempurature is increasing with is more a rate than anything... so anything much more than that would be way too fast thats why I say 1/4 as a possibly agreeable number, make sure your cooling fan is working too or build a switch for it off a relay if it isn't(worst case scenario)...

i use my old ac condensor as a radiator block currently

[KARR]

Originally Posted by spotaneagle

on my car at prime with wai i had only 2/3 covered 1/3 was exposed and with the wai i only noticed a slight increase in temp increase speed. the velocity at which the tempurature is increasing with is more a rate than anything... so anything much more than that would be way too fast thats why I say 1/4 as a possibly agreeable number, make sure your cooling fan is working too or build a switch for it off a relay if it isn't(worst case scenario)...

The cooling fan is working properly. It starts working when the temperature reaches 197.6 F. However, it doesn't cool down the engine efficiently (or doesn't cool it down at all) when the radiator is 100% blocked. I'll follow your suggestion and I will unblock part of the radiator.

[JanGeo]

Yes openings in those yellow areas are the correct locations - on the other side of course. You want the openings where the fan blades are since that is where the air is pulled through the radiator. It is also a good idea to NOT put the radiator block material against the radiator . . . why? . . . how much force is a 60 mph or greater wind going to push on the blocking material and against the radiator which is designed to pass air through it. Also you want air to be able to flow through the radiator where the fan is when the fan turns on . . . you can block several inches in front of the radiator but allow the fan to pull air through as much of the radiator as possible when it needs to cool it. Allow air to flow around the radiator block from below etc when the fan runs.

[KARR]

Originally Posted by JanGeo

Yes openings in those yellow areas are the correct locations - on the other side of course. You want the openings where the fan blades are since that is where the air is pulled through the radiator. It is also a good idea to NOT put the radiator block material against the radiator . . . why? . . . how much force is a 60 mph or greater wind going to push on the blocking material and against the radiator which is designed to pass air through it. Also you want air to be able to flow through the radiator where the fan is when the fan turns on . . . you can block several inches in front of the radiator but allow the fan to pull air through as much of the radiator as possible when it needs to cool it. Allow air to flow around the radiator block from below etc when the fan runs.

OK, I'll make the necessary changes.

It may look that the cardboard is against the radiator, but it's not. There's a metal structure that separates the radiator and the front bumper.

[BEEF]

why not cover the grill itself in the bumper. instead of blocking off the radiator at all. that way you get double duty out of the block. you get the advantage of the wind not coming through and cooling you down but you also get the aerodynamic advantage as well. if the fan comes on, it can still pull air from below.

I would still recommend only blocking a portion and not the entire thing. coroplast doesn't look that bad on the front of a car and you can cut it with scisors or a razor knife easily. coroplast is the stuff that signs are made of that people stick in their yards (mostly political signs during election seasons)

[R.I.D.E.]

That rusty mess around that hose in the picture looks like it should be changed completely. Coolant will not cool properly unless its a proper mix and not full of rust.

If the coolant fan will not cool it off fairly quickly you might consider cleaning or replacing the radiator itself. As they get old their capacity to cool reduces to the point where they will not cool enough.

Also monitor your coolant level closely, to make sure you are not loosing coolant, which would indicate some problem like a bad head gasket.

That coolant residue around that hose looks nasty.

regards
Gary