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Old 06-28-2006, 04:59 PM   #1
Compaq888
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Is it okay to buy a high mileage honda??

I've been looking at 99-00 civic manuals and those with 125k+ miles cost about $6000. Those with anything below 90k miles are $11000. So I was thinking why not buy a civic with 125k miles?? What do you guys think??

Last edited by Matt Timion : 06-28-2006 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 06-28-2006, 05:06 PM   #2
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I sold my 85 CRXHF in 1990 for a 286 computer and a 26" color tv. It had 275k miles on it and was still going strong. One clutch, three sets of tires, a few sets of rotors and a few thousand gallons of gas was all I put into it. But I was the original owner. I guess it matters how well it was treated.
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Old 06-28-2006, 05:08 PM   #3
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Go for it! I've purchased 15+ Hondas by now, lots of them with over 200K. Watch for rust and check the tie rods ends and axles for wear, these can cost you hundreds to repair. Also, don't be afraid to remove the oil fill cap and check to see how stained the head is, a nice light colored head is a good indication of frequent oil changes. Also check that the transmission goes through the gears smoothly on upshifts and downshifts, cars that are driven hard will often grind into 3rd.
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Old 06-28-2006, 05:10 PM   #4
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125k miles is only 200k km and I've driven every vehicle I own well past that. My Metro is at 202k km now and I bought it with 193k km on it.

I took my Dodge Spirit to 400k km before I got rid of it. I generally don't see anything wrong with high-mileage cars if they've been maintained relatively well.
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Old 06-28-2006, 05:12 PM   #5
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I don't know awhole lot about Honda's, but one thing I do know is that 125K on a Honda is like any lesser car just getting loosened up and broken in.
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Old 06-28-2006, 05:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Compaq888
I've been looking at 99-00 civic manuals and those with 125k+ miles cost about $6000. Those with anything below 90k miles are $11000. So I was thinking why not buy a civic with 125k miles?? What do you guys think??
My take would be: It all depends on who and how the 125k got on there. Some kid with a riced out car at 125k no. A guy with a kid or wife stock you bet. I know that those are generalizatons but that is just the way I feel.
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Old 06-28-2006, 05:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krousdb
I sold my 85 CRXHF in 1990 for a 286 computer
But the real question is this:

Did the 286 have a math co-processor? :P
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Old 06-28-2006, 05:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack
My take would be: It all depends on who and how the 125k got on there. Some kid with a riced out car at 125k no. A guy with a kid or wife stock you bet. I know that those are generalizatons but that is just the way I feel.
I feel the same way.
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:02 PM   #9
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11k for a 99-00 with 90k is a rip off. When I was looking at a new 05 civic it was 12k.

Anyway, I think you're ripping yourself off insisting on such a new one, especially since the 96 is identical besides the bront end bumper/hood/fenders/lights.

Hell, dan is selling a very very nice 41k del sol for 4k,

Just don't rush, is what I'm saying.
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:07 PM   #10
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Obviously you want to look at how it's been treated. Mechanically I bought a 1987 DX hatchback at 165,000 and mechanically I think it was just getting broken in. Never used any oil, got 40-45 mpg, ran great. It's issue was my daughter who drove it for 4 month's in Utah, came to Ca for the summer, left to go back to Utah, in late August, but never checked her oil or changed it. It finally lost it, in Mesquitte, Nevada. When I got their it had gotten low on oil, quit feeding the last bearing on the cam and the cam got so warm it torqued off.

I thought that was pretty good. Then when I got the engine out, the crankshaft was still Ok and so I just put new ring's, rod and main bearings and put a rebuilt head on. The car's at 225,000 and still going strong, still doesn't use any oil to speak of.

I think if you look in the oil fill and it's amber, like Bunger said, then you have a pretty good bet going. Fundamentally amazing reliability.
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:14 PM   #11
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If you're willing to work on it, absolutely.
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:25 PM   #12
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One other recomendation I would make would be to replace the water pump and timing belt, unless you can get pretty solid confirmation that they were done recently. Very inexpensive, high return insurance!
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Palmer
One other recomendation I would make would be to replace the water pump and timing belt, unless you can get pretty solid confirmation that they were done recently. Very inexpensive, high return insurance!
Excellent advice. I just replaced mine on the new engine so at least I know when it was replaced last.
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Old 06-28-2006, 11:40 PM   #14
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my honda has 217k on the clock and runs like a champ taking abuse daily. granted i replaced the suspension and motor....

take the advice of what everyone else is saying. ensure a recent timing belt/water pump change and test the normal things: brakes, shocks, tranny, a/c for your area. you know the normal stuff. miles doesnt do much, its all about how it runs and the potential expenses you might recieve for maintenance.
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Old 06-29-2006, 04:11 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Timion
But the real question is this:

Did the 286 have a math co-processor? :P
It was the 40 mHz DX. I think the DX had a coprocessor and the SX didn't or was it the other way around? OS was Windows 3.1.
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Old 06-29-2006, 05:24 AM   #16
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basically I'm either going to pick up a 99 or a 00 civic 5 speed manual dx. This month I'm overwhelmed with bills so I'm looking forward before Dec. of this year.
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Old 06-29-2006, 11:38 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krousdb
It was the 40 mHz DX. I think the DX had a coprocessor and the SX didn't or was it the other way around? OS was Windows 3.1.
You're right. The DX has a math co-processor. Our first computer was a 386 SX 33Mhz. I later bought a 386 SX 16Mhz for myself so that I could run my BBS on it.
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Old 06-29-2006, 12:07 PM   #18
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Compaq: I have a couple of thought's for you to consider.

If your planning on going to College, then unless you have a supplier, you are going to need to be extrordinarily fruggal. That being the case, instead of buying what you "want", why don't you buy something that will get the job done, as inexpensively as possible. You could get a 89-91 Honda, put $1000 into fixing critical things like brakes, water pumps and so forth and end up with a very practical, functional car to use while your going to school.

I have about $1500 into my 89 wagon, it get's pretty good mileage, it's dependable and functional.

You could do something like that and put the rest of your money in the bank, for your emergency repair fund and you'd have something you could drive until your finished with school and more gainfully employeed.

That would be a lot better use of your resources, in my perspective.

p.s. I had a 70 Ford Custom (really a cheapy Galaxy), I paid $200 for, drove for 2 year's and sold for $300. It was ugly, it had a severly bent rear axle, the passengers side was all dented-broadside, I used garden green spray paint on all of the rust spots, about every 2 month's, but it got me to where I needed to go, to work and to go to school. Oh, the front seat had a heavy foam cushion, so that I didn't sit on the floor, the radiator had a crack on one of the tanks, so I had to put in a can of Pepper about once a month, but it worked. Food for thought
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Old 06-29-2006, 12:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Palmer
If your planning on going to College, then unless you have a supplier, you are going to need to be extrordinarily fruggal. That being the case, instead of buying what you "want", why don't you buy something that will get the job done, as inexpensively as possible. You could get a 89-91 Honda, put $1000 into fixing critical things like brakes, water pumps and so forth and end up with a very practical, functional car to use while your going to school.
More excellent advice. When I was going to college I had a $300/mo car payment, $150/mo insurance, $865/mo rent, and only around 25mpg.

If I could do it over I would have gotten roommates, a cheap $600 car (Toyota, Honda, etc.) and not worked full time.

But then again Compaq only seems to want a brand new (or almost new) car. If you're really afraid of something breaking, consider that the cost of an older car plus repairs will still be cheaper than getting a car made in 2000.

Hell, you could buy an older civic and get a NEW (less than 60k) engine put in it for around $1000, if not less. If I lived closer I'd do it for you for less than that.
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Old 06-29-2006, 02:00 PM   #20
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If you want cheap and reliable, look for an ancient Volvo! I prefer working on those because there's so much room around the engine you can just crawl in there with it. Safe as hell, too, considering that I'm talking about cars that were designed right about the time I was born. And in SoCal you could definitely find one without rust. The transmission of choice is a 4-speed manual that has an electrically operated overdrive (no kidding...you clutch and push a button to engage fifth) followed by the true 5-speed manual. Mine was a 85 740 wagon with the naturally aspirated four cylinder and the funky manual, and it was good for 28-30mpg on the highway in the hands of a moronic 17 year old. Come on, you know you want one
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Old 06-29-2006, 04:41 PM   #21
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One of the reasons I sold my altima was because I wanted a newer car. If I wanted to keep fixing stuff i would of have been left with the altima.

Next, I NEVER made car payments, even on my altima. And I plan to do the same on the civic. I'm almost there with the money, I just need a couple more months and I'll have enough. On the altima my insurance was $98 a month, hopefully with the civic I hope it will be around there. I'll be upgrading to a better car that has a stick and that wastes less gas and is less problematic.
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Old 06-29-2006, 05:01 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Compaq888
On the altima my insurance was $98 a month, hopefully with the civic I hope it will be around there.
That could be a big problem. Thanks to their popularity with the ricer crowd, rates on those things can be pretty steep. I think theft is the biggest driver.
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Old 06-29-2006, 05:36 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brick
That could be a big problem. Thanks to their popularity with the ricer crowd, rates on those things can be pretty steep. I think theft is the biggest driver.
I'll talk to my insurance agent about lo jack and anything else that can lower my premium.
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Old 06-29-2006, 05:49 PM   #24
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Yay for sports cars that get 50mpg,
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:02 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy
Yay for sports cars that get 50mpg,
you're not making any sense
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:15 PM   #26
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My car is classified by my insurance company as a sports car.
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:39 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy
My car is classified by my insurance company as a sports car.
ROFLMFAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!1111111111111111111!!!!!!!!one!!!!!!!!!

How much do you pay a month and do you have collision or just liability?
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:43 PM   #28
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I have no idea why you're laughing so hard, it was designed with that purpose in mind. Anyway, my total insurance is something like 2200 a year.
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:14 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy
I have no idea why you're laughing so hard, it was designed with that purpose in mind. Anyway, my total insurance is something like 2200 a year.
wow, that's $183 a month. I was only paying $1176 a year with the altima. Hopefully the civic won't be more than $125 a month for insurance.
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:21 PM   #30
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Well, when you are 17 and first get your license and live in one of the states with the highest insurance in the country and the least options for insurance then there's nothing you can do about it. It has very little to do with the car.
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