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Automotive Tech Questions about your car that do not relate to fuel economy or automotive repair go here.

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Old 08-11-2006, 07:09 PM   #1
SVOboy
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Fix my car, :(

, http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1718485,
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Old 08-11-2006, 08:09 PM   #2
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Update:

Quote:
Made a test light cuz I didn't have one, the thermostat ground, starter ground, and both of the multigrounds are still good. What should I check now?
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Old 08-11-2006, 09:19 PM   #3
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Does the ignition stay on, or does the car just not stop? Check for shorts yet?
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Old 08-11-2006, 09:21 PM   #4
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The car just doesn't stop. None of the grounds are shorted but I'm waiting on a DMM from my dad to check every wire individually. If it's shorted it'll read X number of ohms, correctomundo?
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Old 08-11-2006, 10:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy
The car just doesn't stop. None of the grounds are shorted but I'm waiting on a DMM from my dad to check every wire individually. If it's shorted it'll read X number of ohms, correctomundo?
if you're checking the wires with the ECU wiring, that is correct. You want it to short because that means it's connected.

I would check your distributor wiring first. THe engine turn off by grounding your coil. If it isn't turning off it might be because your dizzy wiring got mixed up.
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Old 08-12-2006, 12:44 PM   #6
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SVOboy: I sent you a really nice long detailed message, which apparently got lost. Did you get your car working?
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Old 08-12-2006, 12:47 PM   #7
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Oh ****! It must've gotten lost, how odd, lemme check my messages just to make sure. My dad just brought over his DMM, I was waiting to see what was up with you before I went out to test wires.
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Old 08-12-2006, 12:54 PM   #8
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Ok, on the DVM, you want to use the ohm setting. Set it to the lowest number you can find. When the lead's are not touching, you should read 1___. That stand's for infinite resistance. When you connect the lead's, you should get 000, or very nearly 0, which is essentially a short cicrcuit, like a wire connection. You will need to make a long, 10-15 feet jumper wire, so that you can connect one end under the hood and one end to the black lead on the DVM. Then connect the jumper wire to the wire you are trying to check. You should be able to connect the red wire to the other end under the dash and getting a reading of 0, if it's wired correctly.

Most likely you have 2 wires which got wired incorrectly.

I'd check the black/yellow wire to the ignition coil, since it is supposed to get power from the second connection when you turn the ignition on. It has to be getting power from something else.

I'm at work, at the moment, trying to finish off some thing's before I go on vacation. That's why I gave you my phone number's, so you could call me, if you need to, after I leave work.
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Old 08-12-2006, 12:56 PM   #9
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Yep, I'll work it up myself for a few hours and if I've still not found the dice I'll give you a call. It might be that I mixed up two black/yellows on one of the round plugs. We'll see!
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:30 PM   #10
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Okay gares, just fired it up again, still not shutting off, but it's not solid cel, it's code 9. That seems like a dizzy code off the top of my head, checking the h-t code list now...
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:31 PM   #11
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9 is cyp, which is cylinder position sensor or something I think. Time to check that wire out. It's the only code, so that means the problem isn't as huge as once anticipated. Need to figure out the ignition stuff. I'm going to print out my own DIY right now and check my wiring,
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:41 PM   #12
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the ignition stuff looks fine, but there is the possibility I misplaced the three thick white wires in the fusebox that come off the ignition. can someone get me a picture of which goes where or perhaps just tell me? Searching h-t now...


i feel the end is near.
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:59 PM   #13
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The blue/white wire should be wired to go to one side of fuse 19. The white/red wire should go to one side of fuse 17. The yellow wire shsould go to one side of fuse 18. The black/yellow should go to one side of fuse 13,14 and 1.

Most likely you have the yellow wire and the black/yellow wires switched. The yellow is ig2 and the black/yellow is ig1, but the problems you've described sound like they just got switched.
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:02 PM   #14
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http://images5.theimagehosting.com/DSC00427.aad.JPG

That's the picture I just sent to matt. I know everything else on the fuse box is correct besides being unsure of those. It sounds like we have differently colored wires?
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:07 PM   #15
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well, those three are correct, unfortunately.
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:08 PM   #16
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i'll have to see about this yellow wire business. i don't think i touched it but i need to check.
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:13 PM   #17
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Bunkness!
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:27 PM   #18
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Yeah, that big *** yellow wire is completely untouched. i fixed the cyp code (nine) by switching two white wires on a round plug, bling bling.

anyway, still no luck getting the car to shut off.

what i think is odd is that the ignitor power wire doesn't get power when the car is in I, but it'll still let the car keep going even after i pull the key out!
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:37 PM   #19
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Hold up a minute. Your saying that even when you take the key out of the ignition it shut's off?
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:38 PM   #20
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what i'm saying is that even if i take the key out the engine still runs, which is what i think you meant but you misworded it.
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:39 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy
Yeah, that big *** yellow wire is completely untouched. i fixed the cyp code (nine) by switching two white wires on a round plug, bling bling.

anyway, still no luck getting the car to shut off.

what i think is odd is that the ignitor power wire doesn't get power when the car is in I, but it'll still let the car keep going even after i pull the key out!
How is your fuel pump getting power when the key is out?
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:42 PM   #22
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don't freaking ask me, iono! it's not getting power before i start the damn engine!

this is why i'm so pissed off,
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:42 PM   #23
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VERY good question! The ecu has to be getting power when it's not supposed to.
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:44 PM   #24
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Well ****, I wish I didn't have such ****ing ****ty jdm sir wiring diagrams! It must be something on one of these damn ****ing circular plugs, they're the only thing I depinned and could've messed up (lots of the same color wires, that's what happened with code 9).
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:51 PM   #25
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What circular plug's are you talking about?
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:52 PM   #26
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The ones that hang out on the strut mounts. I made little mock ups of them in my wire tuck thread, you'll notice there are a lot of the same color wires,

Anyway, if I had a decent wiring diagram I could trace them to make sure they were going the right places, but I haven't found anything that will help.
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Palmer
What circular plug's are you talking about?
plugs onthe shock tower I imagine.

I think at this point all you can do is check every wire on with your DMM.
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:54 PM   #28
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Yeah, but the problem isn't a short, it's wires going the wrong places, which I'd need a diagram to tell me how to fix, na mean?
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Old 08-12-2006, 03:02 PM   #29
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Yes, I know what you mean. From the diagram, it lookss like their are two primary, 14 wire plug's. One goe's to the ecu and the other goe's to the driver's side. Are those the two you are talking about and are they the only two?
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Old 08-12-2006, 03:03 PM   #30
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Yes, and yes. I'd need the two going to the ecu I believe as the drive side plug has all different wires and was easily matched. I might be wrong on that though.
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