How to ID VX engine

[Sean88]

I've got a line on a '95 Civic VX! The problem is that the owner indicated that they bought it from someone who claimed to have changed the engine. They said it was a VTEC engine but I want to confirm that. What is the best way to confirm that it's a VX VTEC? Where is the engine SN located? What other cues will tell me that it's the real thing? Any other advice before I go look at it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Sean

[FormulaTwo]

look for the vtec solenoid on the engine
on the intake manifold
near the valve cover, on the left side

looks like this

[90CivicStandard]

There's also a funky EGR valve assembly that no other SOHC engine has. That's the easiest way to tell it apart from others.

And yeah, the VTEC solenoid that's pictured above as well. But if they swapped in a d16z6 it would have the VTEC solenoid eventhough it's not a stock VX engine.

I'll see if I can find a pic of the EGR assembly that I'm talking about.

Oh, I just remembered, it will also have a 5-wire O2 sensor if it's a VX engine. And check the engine code, it should be d15z1.

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by FormulaTwo

look for the vtec solenoid on the engine
on the intake manifold
near the valve cover, on the left side

looks like this

yeah, but this can exist in any VTEC engine.

Easiest way to tell:

The valve cover will say "Vtec-e"
on the front of the block, near the distributor it will say "d15z1" (unless it's a motor from japan)
EGR setup
The ECU used to run it is a P07

[thisisntjared]

holy crap, the engine code is by far the easiest way to tell. tell us what it says and we will tell you what motor.

d16z6: 92-95 ex/si
d15z1: 92-95 vx
d15b7: 92-95 dx
d15b8: 92-95 cx

[Sean88]

Thanks for all the responses. I'll bring my camera and post a pic or two. Engine code will be the first thing I check on the front near the distributor.

[thisisntjared]

its right on the edge of where the tranny connects to the engine block and right under the head.

[Sean88]

Just back from looking at the VX. Bit of a disappointment. Here's what is wrong with the car.
1. The driver's window crank is just about stuck.
2. There is significant rust around the rear wheel wells.
3. There are sever spots where the car has been hit although lightly.
4. The tires are bad especially the front left which is completely bald.
5. The car doesn't idle properly. Sometimes it races and other times it's just high.
6. The front end alignment is off.
7. The tranny was replaced with a rebuilt about a year ago but it feels pretty tight. Not sure if that's good or bad. Not sure if the tranny is VX/CX.
8. O2 sensor was replaced about a year ago and it has 4 wires. Is that correct?

It's definitely a d15z1 motor at least. The exhaust is relatively new. The interior is clean. It drove well except for the high idle and a few rattles which sounded like heat shields. They were asking $2,500 and I threw out $1,000 thinking that I had to check on a few things like the O2 sensor. They were more interested in bringing it to a mechanis to get the problems fixed than in coming down in price. I said I'd get back to them. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. At this point I'm leaning torwards passing on it . I'll post pics in a minute.

Sean

[Sean88]

Here's a few pics.

The engine bay.


Rear Wheel Well Rust


Body Damage


O2 Sensor

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by Sean88

Just back from looking at the VX. Bit of a disappointment. Here's what is wrong with the car.
1. The driver's window crank is just about stuck.
2. There is significant rust around the rear wheel wells.
3. There are sever spots where the car has been hit although lightly.
4. The tires are bad especially the front left which is completely bald.
5. The car doesn't idle properly. Sometimes it races and other times it's just high.
6. The front end alignment is off.
7. The tranny was replaced with a rebuilt about a year ago but it feels pretty tight. Not sure if that's good or bad. Not sure if the tranny is VX/CX.
8. O2 sensor was replaced about a year ago and it has 4 wires. Is that correct?

It's definitely a d15z1 motor at least. The exhaust is relatively new. The interior is clean. It drove well except for the high idle and a few rattles which sounded like heat shields. They were asking $2,500 and I threw out $1,000 thinking that I had to check on a few things like the O2 sensor. They were more interested in bringing it to a mechanis to get the problems fixed than in coming down in price. I said I'd get back to them. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. At this point I'm leaning torwards passing on it . I'll post pics in a minute.

Sean

1. Window crank will cost you about $40 and 30 minutes to fix. Even less time if you've done it before. Less money if you find one in the junkyard.
2. Rust sucks.
3. Body damage sucks
4. Tires cost money to replace, which also sucks.
5. Sounds to me like you might have a vacuum leak. Also remember that Hondas idle high when you initially start the car up in order to get the engine hot fast. I am also experiencing some high idle issues in my car, which I think might be a vacuum leak or just something wrong with one of the sensors.
6. Alignments just cost money. I think it's $40 at Big-O
7. I'm unsure if there are ways to identify transmissions from the outside. Experience tells me there are not. Perhaps the owner knows if the tranny is VX/CX.
8. If the car is a california model, it should have 4 wires. If you're really interested in this car, I think you can run the VIN and find out if it's a CA model or not, or you can always check the ECU. I'm not 100% certain of how to check for CA model vs. non-CA model except for the o2 sensor. If they have a non-CA model and converted it to use a 4 wire o2 sensor, it's just not going to run that well.

I think a car in that condition shouldn't be that high in price. It needs new (or newER) tires. the window regulator needs replacing. Small mechanical issues need to be fixed, like the high idle (unless it's just normal honda idling).

I would honestly stand by your $1000 offer, explaining to them all of the things that need to be fixed in order to make this car worth $2500. I would also check KBB.com and tell them that this vehicle is in "poor" condition.

If they won't bite, move on to the next one.

[thisisntjared]

i vote SKIP!! they are too tight on it. let it sit for a while now that gas prices are going down. when they realize they are dumb they will settle.

even if that thing was spotless 2500 would sit for a while. with body damage and rust alone 2500 is waaay too high. tires, alignment and body work alone will cost you around 2g if you get it done right(i.e. not by you if you dont own a shop).

unless you already know how to fix each one of those problems, you will be buying a headache.

[tomauto]

Be sure to make your move on those ''low gas prices'' before November 7th

[thisisntjared]

why nov 7?

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by thisisntjared

why nov 7?

November 7 = election day. Expect gas prices to go back on the rise after elections.

[Compaq888]

Wish I had a fuel truck. I would of fueled it up and refueled from it. Gas prices are a ***** when I drive 3k in 2 months.

[thisisntjared]

ah... its a theory....

cpaq... you 'would of'??? hahaha! i know how you feel though i drive 3 hours a day totaling over 600 miles a week. that changes after october 27 though, then i drive 4 miles a day.

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by Compaq888

Wish I had a fuel truck. I would of fueled it up and refueled from it. Gas prices are a ***** when I drive 3k in 2 months.

I somehow think that if you could afford a fuel truck and the cost of gas to fill it (even two years ago) that money would be the least of your worries.