ECT Analyzer/manual TC lockup

[Bruce]

I found this reference to an ECT Analyzer in some Toyota service literature...it looks like it'd be perfect for manually locking up the TC on my `99 Prizm (Corolla clone) rather than having to play games with the accelerator at moderate speeds:

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h17.pdf

Anybody know where to get one? Better yet, is there a way to hack what it does, ie. put the TC lockup on a switch?

- Bruce

[CO ZX2]

This is the sort of thought that could benefit many with auto transmissions. Heaven knows they need it. Kudos for bringing attention to the possibilities.

ECT Analyzer referred to is probably only supplied to Toyota. Toyota parts and service may be able to provide a contact.

I do know there are lockup switches available for some transmissions. May turn out to be as simple as splicing a switch into the lockup solenoid wiring. Found this site when looking around. May be of some help or ideas.
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=59308&page=7

Dig into this well before giving up. You could render a much needed service to others. Let us know what you come up with.

[Bruce]

More like:

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=59308&page=7 , I guess.

But the result is the same...I'll need a wiring diagram. I can get my hands on a shop manual for free, but I'll need to wait a few months for it.

[TomO]

Click on Drawing 1 in this LINK. It shows the TCC ctrl running to pin 21 of the transmission control module as a blu/yel wire. It looks like the module supplies with with a 12V signal since the other side of the solenoid is grounded. Just let me know if the link doesn't work for you and I'll fix it.

I used to control the TCC in my 90 Turbo Grand Prix VIA a switch on the TCC circuit to lock it up sooner. But that was back when I was doing it for acceleration reasons and not FE.

[CO ZX2]

TomO, when I click on LINK takes me to login and password site. Sounds like you are on the right track.

[Bruce]

Yeah, same for me...for subscribers only.

Any indication of a service plug that can be used, like the pictures in the original link for the ECT? I'd rather clip onto a plug than munch up the OEM wiring. Thanks --

[TomO]

Click HERE Then enter pl249412345678 in the space where it asks for the barcode number. Click Submit. Then click on Auto Repair Reference Center (near the upper middle of the screen under Auto Repair). Then click on the Auto Repair Center Link that shows up in the next screen. Select you year, make and model, then select the topic you want to cover. In Bruce's case, I chose 1999>Chevrolet>Prism>1.8L>Wiring Diagrams>Engine controls>diagram 1

It's a little work to get through but well worth it.

[Bruce]

Thanks!

[MetroMPG]

Interesting idea. Watching with interest...

[diamondlarry]

It wouldn't let me in. I got the following message.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Important User Information: Remote access to EBSCO's databases is permitted to patrons of subscribing institutions accessing from remote locations for personal, non-commercial use. However, remote access to EBSCO's databases from non-subscribing institutions is not allowed if the purpose of the use is for commercial gain through cost reduction or avoidance for a non-subscribing institution.

[TomO]

Hmm, try once more and let me know.

[diamondlarry]

Still no luck.

[TomO]

weird. What info were you looking for? Maybe I can pull it up and send you a picture of it, or just tell you the info.

[diamondlarry]

As soon as I click on the Auto Repair Reference Center link I get the message I posted earlier.

[omgwtfbyobbq]

Edit- nvm, no cookies enabled.

[CO ZX2]

Originally Posted by diamondlarry

Still no luck.

Larry, I had the same trouble you are having but finally got thru.

I had to enable cookies for the site and enable Adobe Acro in add-ons, then it worked. CO ZX2

[diamondlarry]

Originally Posted by TomO

weird. What info were you looking for? Maybe I can pull it up and send you a picture of it, or just tell you the info.

I was trying to see if I could get a pin-out diagram for my '99 Saturn's ECU. Saturn no longer has manuals at the dealer. They have went to an online only system.

[TomO]

ok Larry, check out this link HERE and make sure that your browser is setup properly.

In the mean time I'll pull the pinouts for your Saturn and PM them to you.

[diamondlarry]

Originally Posted by TomO

ok Larry, check out this link HERE and make sure that your browser is setup properly.

In the mean time I'll pull the pinouts for your Saturn and PM them to you.

When I click the "Auto Repair Reference Center" on the page you just sent the link for is when I get the error message. I get sent to this page:
http://search.ebscohost.com/login.as...efctr&return=y Odd. Thanks for looking for the pin-out diagram. I'm specificaly looking for the pin that is responsible for the Keep Alive Memory. When I use my injector kill switch repeatedly the engine begins to idle very fast; sometimes as fast as 3,000 rpm's. If I pull the battery cable for a few minutes, everything goes back to normal. I eventuall want to see if I can't hook that up to the ignition switch so it re-sets everytime I start the engine with the key. Sorry about hijacking the thread.

[TomO]

I've PM'ed you about it Larry. And sorry for thread-jacking, I got carried away with helping everyone out.

[diamondlarry]

Actually, I think it was me that was the hijacker. Thanks for the help.

[Bruce]

Probably the first step would be to tap off the wiring or connector to an LED to at least have a TCC indicator. This'd be a lot safer than putting it on a switch, because leaving it locked could potentially stall the engine if the brakes are locked up to avoid an accident, and it may also be hard on the car if I put in too much throttle going uphill and the Powertrain Control Module downshifts the transmission. My thought is that I could just run a couple leads out the back of the hood so that a LED rests on the HVAC intake.

How can I locate the PCM? I have several fuse blocks under the hood.

[TomO]

the ECU on Toyotas (which is who actually makes most of the parts for your car) is usually located just about on the floor directly behind the center console. It may be just under the the backside of the center console as well (towards the dash). It's been a year since I've had to pull an ECU out of a Prizm so bear with me.

[Bruce]

Ugh.

If getting at the ECU wiring is anywhere near as bad as replacing a heater core, I'd skip it. Ripping the dash out is a lot of work, and I'd probably screw something up in doing it. (Take it apart, put it back together, figure out what to do with the parts left over.)

For an indicator at least, it sounds like tapping into the transmission end of the harness may be easier, though I'd need help finding that as well.

Thanks!

[Toysrme]

All it takes is a relay to ground the ECU's signal throguh a 10w resistor, and a switch to send 9-12v of current through the other side of the relay when you want / don't want the torque convertor locked up.
This idea would only help restarting the engine via the clutch during pulse & glide, which would be very harsh since it doesn't slip... It's either on, or it's off...

In actuality. This wouldn't help you hardly at all. Via the TCCU logic, in any gear near an overdrive gear (3&4th on a 4 speed, 4 & 5th in the 5-speeds & 4-6 in the 6-speeds.), anytime the VTA signal reads <5% of the previously measured vta signal, the torque convter is locked to begin with, provided the engine is warm.
Not only that, but OEM torque convertors are weak as ****ing piss. You'd have to spend $500-1000 to have your torque convertor custom rebuilt with a sick clutch pack, then swap, or pay it to be swapped out.







This is not something that will pan out. btw, you can build a complete manual controller via a 6-sway rotary switch for about $15 for any of the 4 speed Asian-Warner transmissions in the same manner as described above.




You also get into an unlocked torque convertor has more power loss, but you also have the mechanical benifit of it's flash speed, which has an absolutely gigantic short term impact in torque output when you're on the throttle. In the order of 1.8-2.0x torque output until it has caught up.

[rh77]

I have separate post on this subject and noticed this one...

Basically the TC on my '98 Integra 4-speed is very TPS-specific. I have the shop manual, pinouts, and flow-charts of the TC lockup condition (zero, partial, half, or full) and sensor requirements.

I'm not sure what's going on, but the TC will lock-up at 'full' when over 35% TPS, but as soon as it drops below that at cruise, it unlocks and re-shifts into partial at 20%, for example (I can't hold-on to it with less throttle).

All other conditions are in-place - a specific example today:

• Coolant = Full Operating Temp (202F)
• VSS reads 55+ MPH
• Secondary Lock-Up Sensor is not showing "Hill Logic" override
• Transmission Selector in Top Gear: D4
• IAT in the high 80s

I don't have the diagram with me right now, but I can't determine if altering the electronic TPS signal will help, or if it's the actual TPS cable to the transmission that needs tightening.

Can anyone shed some light on a possible fix. I'm running down the highway in zero or partial lockup and it's killing my FE!

RH77

[MetroMPG]

RH77, not to rub salt in the wound, but remind me again why you're driving an auto? Is it for the other driver in the house?

[rh77]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

RH77, not to rub salt in the wound, but remind me again why you're driving an auto? Is it for the other driver in the house?

Ouch...Salt.

Yes, my wife can't/won't drive a manual. I resolved to driving her old car to save on a car payment and to have 2 autos around the house so it can be driven by either party.

The next solution would be to trade the 'Teg on a different, more fuel-efficient automatic. The problem is that the car holds sentimental value from an untimely death in the family, and is a touchy subject to discuss selling it.

-RH77

[MetroMPG]

Okey dokey. Just wondering. (You probably already mentioned this when I wasn't paying attention.)

[SVOboy]

Originally Posted by rh77

I have separate post on this subject and noticed this one...

Basically the TC on my '98 Integra 4-speed is very TPS-specific. I have the shop manual, pinouts, and flow-charts of the TC lockup condition (zero, partial, half, or full) and sensor requirements.

I'm not sure what's going on, but the TC will lock-up at 'full' when over 35% TPS, but as soon as it drops below that at cruise, it unlocks and re-shifts into partial at 20%, for example (I can't hold-on to it with less throttle).

All other conditions are in-place - a specific example today:

• Coolant = Full Operating Temp (202F)
• VSS reads 55+ MPH
• Secondary Lock-Up Sensor is not showing "Hill Logic" override
• Transmission Selector in Top Gear: D4
• IAT in the high 80s

I don't have the diagram with me right now, but I can't determine if altering the electronic TPS signal will help, or if it's the actual TPS cable to the transmission that needs tightening.

Can anyone shed some light on a possible fix. I'm running down the highway in zero or partial lockup and it's killing my FE!

RH77

On the CRX, there is only zero and full lockup, and full lockup can be induced by giving the wire running from the ecu to the solenoid a constant 12V. Meaning, it will lock up when it gets warm if it is getting the 12V, but not otherwise. It's odd that it doesn't stay always locked up, but that's the case. You could attempt through a switch in line with the full lockup wire and a 12v source and seeing if it will activate lockup when you're on the highway. Either that our you could neutral bomb the transmission and swap in a stick,