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11-29-2007, 03:26 PM
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#1
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Founder of L.O.S.T.
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 365
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Tip for those with Autos
If you don't want to keep turning the ignition off and on at traffic lights...do put the tranny into neutral. It takes more fuel to "load" the torque converter when it is in drive. My Jeep Liberty Diesel fuels at 15.6mm3 in drive and 6.3mm3 in neutral. With my diesel you can actually "feel" the difference while sitting still.
*mm3 is CFR (Calculated Fuel Rate)
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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD... Founder of L.O.S.T.
OME 2.25" Lift w/ Toyo Open Country HTs 235/75/16s
ASFIR Alum Eng/Tranny/Transfercase/Fuel Skids
2002 Air Box Mod...Air Tabs (5) on Roof...(3)each behind rear windows
Partial Grill Block with Custom Air Scoop and 3" Open Catback Exhaust
Lambretta UNO150cc 4 Stroke Scooter
Last edited by DarbyWalters : 11-29-2007 at 03:36 PM.
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11-29-2007, 03:46 PM
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#2
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Tightwad
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 170
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Our 02 Honda Odyssey registers .5gph in D at a stop and .4gph in N at a stop according to the Scan Gauge. Not much difference, but it's sumpin'.
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11-29-2007, 04:43 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 269
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The Cabrio uses about 0.3GPH idling, and I save roughly 10% of idle fuel if I drop it in neutral. Not much, but it all adds up!
Think of it this way: The tranny's in neutral and the engine's free-wheeling at some RPM. Drop it in drive with your foot on the brake. If RPMs stay the same, you're clearly burning more fuel to keep the RPMs up against the load of the immobilized car through the TC.
(Meaning it might not matter as much if the RPM drops when you put it in drive while idling. I think my first (carbed, non-ECU'd) car acted that way... I dunno if anything even remotely recent would, though.)
Rick
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11-29-2007, 04:52 PM
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#4
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HPV, It's the Future
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beatr911
Our 02 Honda Odyssey registers .5gph in D at a stop and .4gph in N at a stop according to the Scan Gauge. Not much difference, but it's sumpin'.
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Not much! That's a 20% increase in FE 
__________________
Time is the best teacher. Unfortunately it kills all its students.
Bike Miles (Begin Aug. 20 - '07): ~433.2 miles
11/12
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11-29-2007, 06:01 PM
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#5
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 16
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Thanks for this post, I wasn't aware if the difference was at all noticeable, but I'll try doing this from now on and see how it goes.
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12-01-2007, 11:28 PM
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#6
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Stay true to the Game!
Join Date: May 2007
Location: El Cerrito, CA
Posts: 308
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The scan gauge isn't always accurate. For example, I did a trip to California from Mississippi. On my first leg I was coasting with the engine on in N the first 2 legs of the trip. The SG2 reported that this method was yielding about 30mpg for the tank. When I filled it up I had only gotten 25 and 26 mpg. So in closing the only thing that matters is the amount of fuel consumed regardless of what a gauge might say.
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12-02-2007, 12:57 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 107
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popimp, have you calibrated yours? For the past few trips, my scanguage has been pretty accurate.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theclencher
P.S. I must be a wierdo as I think just because a guy can afford to do something, doesn't mean he should. I can afford to buy 100 gallons of gas several times a month, pour it on the ground, light it (or not)... but I don't think I should.
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12-02-2007, 02:23 AM
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#8
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Stay true to the Game!
Join Date: May 2007
Location: El Cerrito, CA
Posts: 308
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Yes it's been calibrated. It reports high only when I use the Neutral engine on coasting. If I don't Neutral coast the SG2 is on the money.
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12-02-2007, 11:36 AM
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#9
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HPV, It's the Future
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popimp
Yes it's been calibrated. It reports high only when I use the Neutral engine on coasting. If I don't Neutral coast the SG2 is on the money.
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I have the same issue too... Even with the engine off - ignition on, the SG reads .3gph 
__________________
Time is the best teacher. Unfortunately it kills all its students.
Bike Miles (Begin Aug. 20 - '07): ~433.2 miles
11/12
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12-02-2007, 04:00 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: CA transplant livin' the good life in E. Texas
Posts: 298
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Does the same go for carb'd engines or just EFI? I don't see how it'd work on a carb, but you never know...
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'67 Mustang Convertible - guaranteed to last longer than the computerized rot on dealers' lots today.
'09 Harley Nightster - 1/4mi in the 12's, mileage in the 40's! 
Last edited by jcp123 : 12-02-2007 at 04:07 PM.
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12-03-2007, 01:50 PM
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#11
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Team Leftover Bananas!
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New Milford, PA
Posts: 244
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Handy knowledge! I figured my girlfriend was gonna kill me if I kept killing the engine at lights, heat cuts out DAMN fast in the Saturn with the engine off. I think it's because the heater controls are vacuum operated, no engine, no heat.
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Captain - Team Leftover Bananas!
The_Last_SL1's conversion to better Fuel Efficiency is here
If you're new, take a peek at New Members Thread by rh77!
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12-03-2007, 03:19 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Southeastern CT - USA
Posts: 723
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Aha - I think I saw this on cleanmpg.com
I believe you need to set the ScanGauge to "Hybrid". This allows it to track distance and register zero (instantaneous) fuel consumption. Yes, that's for non-hybrid cars. Hybrids of course, you also set it to "Hybrid".
http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/revie...e-ii-4495.html
Quoting from there:
The next setup parameter from the detailed setup screen that needs to be adjusted is “Fuel”. Push the button next to “MORE” ---> Push the Button next to “SETUP” ---> Push the Button next to “FUEL”.
1. Press the button next to “TYPE”.
2. Select the type of vehicle by pressing the top buttons on the right or left to show Gas, Diesel a, Diesel b or Hybrid. If you do not own a diesel, select Hybrid even if you do not own a hybrid for the ability to continue recording data points through a FAS. [Note: "FAS" = EOC]
3. Press the button next to “SAVE”.
4. Press the “Home” button which will bring you back to the initial Selection screen.
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Currently getting low 40's mpg in pre-Spring weather. Current EPA is 31/39 so low 40's is not too shabby. WAI mod done.
Now driving '97 Civic HX; tires ~ 50 psi. '89 Volvo 240 = semi-retired.
Last edited by brucepick : 12-03-2007 at 08:07 PM.
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12-05-2007, 05:01 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OdieTurbo
Handy knowledge! I figured my girlfriend was gonna kill me if I kept killing the engine at lights, heat cuts out DAMN fast in the Saturn with the engine off. I think it's because the heater controls are vacuum operated, no engine, no heat.
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Like so....
The heat works because the water pump sends HOT antifreeze / coolant through the heater core, which is basically a small radiator, so it has fins which heat up. Then your interior fan blows air through that heater core, the air absorbs the heat from the fins and this creates warm air.
When you turn the engine off, the water pump stops and your coolant stops circulating.
It takes only seconds for a fan to cool off what hot water is left in the heater core, doesn't matter what vents it's blowing out of, without HOT coolant circulation you have no heat.
Try instead turn your interior fan OFF when the engine is off.
Or keep the key out of accessory mode.
Shouldn't get nearly as cold now.
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A FE gauge should be standard equipment in every vehicle.
Last edited by 8307c4 : 12-05-2007 at 05:10 PM.
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Linear Mode
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