Scion xB tips, techniques, etc.

[Improbcat]

I'm starting this thread to hopefully be a repository of mods, information, etc. to up the MPG of the Scion xB. I figured either posting items here, or links to them here would make it easier for xB MPG geeks to find it all.

(Note: this applies to the 1st gen 04-06 xB, as the 08+ are on a different chassis)

To that end, here are a few pieces of info I've come across that look to be helpful:

Scion xB block heater (Toyota part #00213-00885) install instructions

Detailed info on the xB engine

Plug gap: .044 (according to some sources, see comments below for discussion of this vs .032 factory gap)
OEM plug: Denso Spark Plug K16R-U ND
personal recommended replacement: NGK G-Power BKR5EGP(part #) 7090(stock #)

[JanGeo]

Iridium standard heat range plug NGK BKR5EIX
Gap 0.028-0.031 NOT 0.44!!

[Improbcat]

Scion recommends using GL4 fluid in manual transmissions. They shipped with GL5 however, which is corrosive to the brass parts in the transmission. So a transmission drain & refill (with a good synthetic fluid) will likely extend the life of your transmission, it only needs 2 quarts to fill it.

JanGeo: Where did you get that gap range? Everywhere I've seen gives a gap of .044(I miswrote it in my first post), and I haven't seen a gap range (rather than a specific number) for a car for ages.

[JanGeo]

ScionLife recommended 0.8mm = 0.031" It really is not that critical since the coils have pretty good output and there is one for each plug so there is less wiring and no distributor losses involved.

Originally Posted by ScionLife Mr LUV

Posted: 12/15/07 5:37PM Post subject: NGK Iridium plugs and the Proper Gap?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Any one uses the NGK Iridium plugs and can Recommend the Proper Gap?

Manual says .031 min. The plugs themselves when measure are at .038
A SL Member recommended .042 on an old post.

What would you say is the Life / Interval change of these plugs vs Stock?

TIA

The LUV MOBILE is Coming!

MR LUV

[JanGeo]

GL5 gear oil is for limited slip differentials

[FormulaTwo]

I am running my plugs at .044... Perhaps we should try it out with the Scangauge Jangeo?
I wonder just how much the gap would change FE.

Jan I am curious to know how you did your grill block. I am not happy with the intake temps I am seeing while driving. (average 33*f)
I think I could tweak a few more MPG with a block.

Have you guys weighed any parts on the car?
I am wondering how much the stock hubcap wheels weigh?
I have the swirly style Scion wheels (with tires they weighed 26lbs) I believe Scion life said 16lbs for the wheels themselves?
it would be nice to pull together and compile some sort of weight list for the XB parts. (All of them)
(I removed all the trunk crap: Cover/spare/tools for a total of like 30lbs)

Are you two running stock intakes? I am still stuck with this AEM unit.
I don't really want to sell it, but rather install an OEM and test/compare first.

Also what elevations are you at? (I am around 952asl).

[JanGeo]

The bigger gap will probably help with cold running and starting but may cause a little skipping at full throttle and high rpm. I was told by a friend who races not to change the factory gap and mine were very accurate at 0.81mm / 0.032" for all four.

My grill block is the regular 1/2 inch white packing foam sheet cut a little larger than the opening and just stuffed into it. The stuff is non-porus and doesn't seem to break down with age or sunlight. I left a little opening behind the license plate for some cooling but anything over 30mph for any distance in 40 degree or higher temps and I have to remove the bottom block or it will get too warm. The extra temp from the block helps warm up the whole front drive train and after about 15-20 minutes warming up it really starts to get into the 40 mpg range. Just have to watch the temps as it can climb past 190F really quick going up a hill.

Everything is stock in my xB except for the Synlube and I use GP7 Torco and Acetone in the gas but didn't use Acetone for the last two tanks before my inspection which is due this month just to see what readings it gets without it.

Wheel weight - I have the stock Steel wheels and 9 spoke hubcaps and I keep forgetting to record the weight in my Scion notes when I have them off but I do have the tire itself at 16lbs.

Altitude under 300 feet and usually about 20-100 feet above sea level - live by the Ocean on an Island btw.

[JanGeo]

Seems the recommended Iridium plug gap is 0.044"

Tire info from ScionLife post
Scion xA and Scion xB Specifications:

Bolt Pattern = 4x100
Center Bore = 54.1mm
Nut Size = M12x1.5

Stock Wheels/Tires
15"x6" +38 offset / 185/60R15 xB 185/60R15 xA 185/65R15 bB
37 lbs per wheel & tire = if tire is 16 lbs then steel rim is 21 lbs
Alloy wheel: 16.7 lbs

Other Vehicles With Interchangable Wheels
Toyota Celica (1988-1989)
Toyota Corolla (1988-2001)
Toyota Corolla Wagon (1988-1996)
Toyota Echo
Toyota MR2 (1986-1990)
Toyota Paseo
Toyota Tercel (1989-1998)
Toyota MR2 Spyder (2000-)

[FormulaTwo]

Very good info on the wheels.
I am trying to decide what to do about the ones I have. (Either of you want to buy them?)
16.7 lbs is very light, I just want something in the 10 pound range.

I will try to find weights for each wheel listed. (Maybe even pictures)
I am thinking that the MR2 spyder Enkeis would look decent on the box.

I put my old Civic Hx wheels on the car a few weeks ago.
They are 4x100 lug pattern, but would need spacers to clear the brakes.
Though they are only 14" so they look a little funny.

[JanGeo]

Yeah every time I look at mag wheels they always price the light ones in the $400-500 + range for a set of four. I also have to wonder about the balance of them with stick on weights and what a pain that can be. I have heard that some Monroe shocks really improve the ride. Around here we have a lot of frost heaves that stick up and really pound when I drive over them knocking things around in the car like crazy and running higher pressure in the tires doesn't help that at all.

[Improbcat]

Checked my plugs after 3,000miles of running .044 gap. There was distinct black carbon deposits on the outer part of the plug. Re-gapped them to .032 and reinstalled.

Car appears to be getting slightly improved gas mileage. However at the same time I upped the tire pressure from 32psi to 38psi, and the weather has been significantly warmer. So I don't know how much can be attributed to the change in plug gap.

[JanGeo]

I am waiting for the 20,000 mile mark to rotate tires and install the iridium plugs DUH guess I don't rotate the tires since that would change the final drive ratio and throw off the mileage calculations ok then just plugs. I think I will regap them for 0.044 gaps as that will provide more spark energy which is what I think I need to make it start easier and quicker.

If you had some soot on the outer parts of the plug that would indicate cooler temps closer to the cylinder head and would indicate that you probably have some carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.

[JanGeo]

Well I finally installed the iridium plugs today and I must say it it took a while to get the last one indexed properly but I lucked out with a brass washer that only took some snipping and filing to get the 4th plug right. The other three were close enough by swapping them around to get them really close - within 1/6 of a turn to perfect - towards the exhaust valves. The original plugs were all over the place on index and the #1 plug was not very tight at all. Car started right up and seems to start quicker for the three times I started it afterwards. Mileage coming back from Tiverton into headwinds was a bit higher than usual . . . 53mpg . . . I usually only get that when I really try and coast a lot more than I did on this trip. The highway trip to Fall River with a tail wind got me 47mpg which was exceptional also. Power up a rather steep long hill at 35mph in 4th gear was seemingly less of a strain than usual . . . I usually have to drop it to 3rd to make it up.

Man those plugs are way deep in the head !!!

All were gapped at 0.043" (close enough to 0.044") and the old ones were showing good color but you could see how the indexing affected the deposits on the electrodes.