195* Tstat

[SVOboy]

See here: http://crxmpg.com/thermostat.html

[SVOboy]

Updated pictures and did this: http://crxmpg.com/thermostat.html

[MetroMPG]

Good jorb. No leaks?

[SVOboy]

Man, I only took one hose off, what'd leak,

[Silveredwings]

You might have even gotten away without removing the hose: just the two bolts and pry it back. Maybe. I don't know.

[SVOboy]

Oh yeah, I definately could've, but I didn't think about it at the time. It's just a hose after all,

[krousdb]

How does the DIY change if you only want a 170 or 180F thermostat?

[SVOboy]

In no way, shape, or form.

[eivad1]

hows does keeping it warmer make it get better gas mileage

[VetteOwner]

2 things to help out: before you start, open the radiator cap to remove all pressure(when a car is running the cooling system has about 14psi)so you dont spray yourself or loose too much coolant(if any). do the DIY but dont tighten down the bolts too much. last thing you want is a stripped stud, or a broken stud, or a messed up hole.

[brelandt]

Another thing to look out for is engine pinging.

I went from 180 to q 195 and my engine starting pinging from the extra heat.

Not all cars will do this but mine did.

But the 180 back in and the pinging went away. Of course it took 2 months to figure out what was causing the pinging since I did a tune-up at the sametime as swaping to a higher t-stat.

[trebuchet03]

Originally Posted by eivad1

hows does keeping it warmer make it get better gas mileage

The higher your operating temperature - the higher your theoretical efficiency I should correct that -- the greater the temperature difference, the higher the theoretical efficiency. For everyone that already understands what I am explaining below, I'm doing my best to keep it as simple as possible

There is something called the Carnot cycle theorem. To help explain here's a diagram :



This is saying, given a temperature difference (hot and cold "reservoir"), a certain amount of heat will flow in - a certain amount of heat will flow out (lost forever) and you'll get a certain amount of work.

The efficiency of the Carnot cycle is:

efficiency = 1 - Tcold / Thot

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So what am I blabbering about? Well, we cant change our cold reservoir (pretty much defined by our air temperature). But, we can increase our operating temperature which in turn increases our hot reservoir (hot gases after ignition will be a little hotter). So, we have increased our theoretical maximum


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The Carnot cycle does not model our Otto engines exactly (but it does make it easy to explain). In reality, Carnot assumes isothermal (temperature does not change) heat addition and heat rejection - but the Otto cycle is not the ideal scenario. The Otto cycle has isometric (constant volume) heat addition and rejection.

Lastly - the trade off. This isn't free. The trade off here is wear. Ideally, you want to run a hot as you can. But, the cost is more wear. How much - I can't say - it may not even be significant over the life of the engine. But you will be adding more heat to your engine and it's surroundings.

A pity too - my T-stat is 190 degrees from the factory... There's not exactly room for improvement :P

[brucepick]

Two points re. changing a t'stat.

1) Be sure you put in t'sat in same orientation as it was. It's basically a disk with hole in it, and some stuff on each side of disc. Some cars will let you put the thing in upside down, and then it won't work right.

2) Watch for a small air bleed hole in rim of the t'stat disc. Usually has a little "jiggle pin" at the hole. This is to vent air bubbles that are in the system. The t'stat mount location is usually tilted at an angle. You have to make sure the vent hole is at the high point so that the air bubbles will find it.